Acheron, the dreadful Acheron, is not far from Avernus and is likewise a lake, tho’ call’d a river in the mythology.  It is also sulfuric and the ground about it is woody, low, marshy and consequently aguish.

We next ascended the cliffs of Baiae and we were shown the remains of the villas of Cicero, Caesar, Sylla and other great names.  We then went to the baths of Nero (so called).  Here it is the fashion to descend under ground in order to feel the effect of the sulfuric heat, which is intense, and my friend who descended soon returned dripping with perspiration and calling out:  Qui n’a pas vu cela n’a rien vu! but I did not chuse to descend, as I could feel no pleasure in being half stifled and the grotto del Cane had already given me a full idea of the force of the vapour of the Thermes.

We then descended from the cliffs of Baiae on the other side, and visited the remains of three celebrated temples of antiquity situated on the beach nearly and very close to each other, viz., the temples of Diana, of Venus and of Mercury; all striking objects and majestic, tho’ in a state of dilapidation.  Each of these temples has cupolas.  We then ascended the slope of ground leading towards cape Misensus, to visit the Cento Camarelle and Piscina mirabile, both vast edifices under ground, serving as cellars or appendages to a Palace that stood on this spot.  We then visited the lake called the Mare Morto or Styx; and then went round to the other side of it, to visit those beautiful coteaux planted in vines and their summits crowned with groves which have obtained the name of the Elysian fields.  This Styx and these Elysian fields look like any other lake and coteaux and are entirely indebted to the lyre of Maro for their celebrity.

From thence we went to the extremity of cape Misenus and embarked in our boat (which we had sent on there to wait for us) to return to Puzzuoli by crossing the bay at once.  In this bay and near cape Misenus a Roman fleet was usually stationed and Pliny’s uncle, I believe, commanded one there at the time of the first eruption of Vesuvius which cost him his life.

There is a singular phenomenon in this bay of a mountain that in one of the later eruptions and earthquakes was formed in twenty-four hours near the seashore and was named Monte Nuovo.

The small salt water lake called Lacus Lucrinus is also on this bay.  It appears to me to be an artificial lake, made probably by the opulent Romans who resided at Baiae to hold their mullets and other sea fish which they wished to fatten.

Near Puzzuoli likewise is the famous Solfaterra, the bed of an ancient volcano.  It is well worth examining.  It has been long since extinguished, but you meet with vast beds of sulphur and calcined stones, and the smell is at times almost insupportable.  We returned to Naples by half-past seven o’clock, not a little tired but highly gratified by our excursion.