Lazzaroni.  Here are delicious mullets, oysters, whitings, soles, prawns, etc.  There is on the Quai of St Lucia a restaurant where naught but fish is served, but that is so well dressed and in such variety that amateurs frequently come to dine here on maigre days; for two carlini[95] you may eat fish of all sorts and bread at discretion.  The wine is paid for extra.  On the Quai of St Lucia is a fountain of mineral water which possesses the most admirable qualities for opening the primae viae and purifying the blood.  It is an excellent drink for bilious people or for those afflicted with abdominal obstructions and diseases of the liver.  It has a slight sulfurous mixed with a ferruginous taste, and is impregnated with a good deal of fixed air, which makes it a pleasant beverage.  It should be taken every morning fasting.  The presidency over this fountain is generally monopolized by a piscatory nymph who expects a grano for the trouble of filling you a glass or two.  In reaching it to you she never fails to exclaim "Buono per le natiche," and it certainly has a very rapid effect; I look upon it as more efficacious than the Cheltenham waters and it is certainly much more agreeable in taste.  At the end of the Quai of St Lucia is the Castello dell ’Uovo, a Gothic fortress, before the inner gate of which hangs an immense stuffed crocodile.  This crocodile is said to have been found alive in the fosse of the castle, but how he came there has never been explained; there is an old woman’s story that he came every day to the dungeon where prisoners were confined, and took out one for his dinner.  The Castello dell ’Uovo stands on the extremity of a tongue of land which runs into the sea.  After passing the Castello dell ’Uovo I came to the Chiaia or Quai properly so called, which is the most agreeable part of Naples and the favorite promenade of the beau-monde. The finest buildings and Palazzi line the Chiaia on the land side and above them all tower the Castle of St Elmo and the Chartreuse with several villas intervening.  The garden of the Chiaia contains gravel walks, grass plots, alleys of trees, fountains, plantations of orange, myrtle and laurel trees which give a delightful fragrance to the air; and besides several other statues, it boasts of one of the finest groups in Europe, called the Toro Farnese. It is a magnificent piece of sculpture and represents three men endeavouring to hold a ferocious bull.  It is a pity, however, that so valuable a piece of sculpture should be exposed to the vicissitudes of the season in the open air.  The marble has evidently suffered much by it.  Why is such a valuable piece of sculpture not preserved in the Museum?

On the Chiaia are restaurants and cafes.  ’Tis here also that the nobility display their carriages and horses, it being the fashionable drive in the afternoon:  and certainly, except in London, I have never seen such a brilliant display of carriages as at Naples.