in plain prose, we left the Tuscan territory, and re-entered the dominions of His Holiness.  After being detained half an hour at the Douane, we proceeded to Acquapendente to breakfast.  The country between Radicofani and Acquapendente is dreary, thinly populated, little cultivated, and volcanic steams of sulphur assail the nostrils.  Before we arrived at Acquapendente we had a troublesome river to cross, which at times is nearly dry, and at other times the water comes down in torrents from the surrounding mountains and precipices, so as to render its passage extremely dangerous.  It is always necessary previous to the passage of a carriage, to send on a man to ford and sound it, from its meandering and forming different beds crossed seven times, twice less than Styx novies interfusa, and it is a very slow operation from the number of rocks and quicksands; so that, should the torrent come down while you are in the act of crossing, you and your whole equipage would be swept away by the stream and drowned or dashed to pieces.  Travellers going to and returning from Rome are frequently detained for a day or two at Ponte Centino or Acquapendente during the rainy season; for immediately after heavy rains, there is always a great risk and it is better to halt for several hours to allow the waters to pass off.  The extent of ground that this river covers by its meandering and forming so many beds nearly parallel to each other renders it impossible to construct a bridge long enough; and it would be always liable to be swept away by the torrent.  Nobody ever thinks of crossing the river in the dark.  There having no rain fallen for several days we passed it without difficulty.

Within a mile of Acquapendente the landscape varies and the approach to this town is exceedingly picturesque.  Acquapendente is situated on a lofty eminence from which several magnificent cascades descend into the ravine below and which give the name to the town.  There are a great number of trees about this town and they afford a great relief to the eye of the traveller after so many hours’ journey thro’ volcanic wastes.  The town of Acquapendente is very ancient; it is very large, but ill-paved and dirty; the best buildings in it are, however, modern.  The inhabitants appear lazy and dirty.  On entering into conversation with some soldiers belonging to the Papal army, who were stationed at this place, I found that most of them had served under Napoleon.  They spoke of him with tears of affection in their eyes, and I pleased them much by reciprocating their opinions of that great man.  To speak well of Napoleon is the surest passport to civility and good treatment on the part of the soldiers and douaniers.