is not so high as that of the Simplon and is less liable
to impediments from the snow; the obstacles from nature
are less, and you can descend in a sledge from the
Hospice by gliding down the side of the cone,
and thus descending in nine or ten minutes, whereas
the ascent requires four hours’ time. From
Lans-le-Bourg to the Hospice on Mont-Cenis
the road is on the flank of an immense mountain and
you have no ravines to cross; the road is cut zig-zag
on the flank of the mountain and forms a considerable
number of very acute angles, as it is made with so
gentle a slope that you scarcely feel the difficulty
of the ascent. These repeated zig-zags and acute
angles formed by the road, and the very slight slope
given to the ascent, make the different branches appear
to be almost parallel to each other, and it is a very
curious and novel sight when a number of carriages
are travelling together on this road to see them with
their horses’ heads turned different ways, yet
all following the same course, just like ships on
different tacks beating against the wind to arrive
at the same port, a comparison that could not fail
immediately to occur to a sailor. There is scarcely
ever any detention on this road from the fall of snow,
as there are a considerable number of persons employed
to deblay it as soon as it falls; but here,
as well as on the Simplon, there are maisons de
refuge at a short distance from each other.
We stopped for two hours at the inn at Mont-Cenis,
which is about one hundred yards from the Hospice.
It was a remarkable fine day, and I enjoyed my walk
very much. The mountain air was keen and bracing
and particularly delightful after being shut up for
some many days in the close valley. We had some
excellent trout for dinner. At Mont-Cenis, near
the Hospice, is a large lake which is frozen
during eight months of the year. Here reigns eternal
winter and the mountains are covered with snows that
never melt. From Mont-Cenis to Suza the descent
is very grand and striking, and the scenery resembles
that of the Simplon; there are more obstacles of nature
than on the former part of the road, and here ravines
are connected by the means of bridges, and there are
subterraneous galleries to pass thro. Several
chutes d’eau are here observable; one
of them I cannot avoid mentioning, as being very magnificent.
It is formed by the Cenischia[74] which divides Savoy
from Piedmont and runs into the Dora at Suza.
We were highly gratified at the sight of the sublime
scenery on all sides, and at the magnificent chaussee,
and we all (I mean the passengers in the two coaches
and myself) did hommage to the mighty genius who conceived
and caused to be executed such a stupendous work.
We arrived at Suza at six o’clock p.m.
TURIN, 18th August.