The day has been, and still is, excessively hot.  The atmosphere is sweltering, and all around us, over the thick patches of mallow and wild mustard, the bees are humming with a continuous sultry sound.  The Shekh, with a number of lazy villagers, is still seated under the terebinth, in a tent of shade, impervious to the sun.  I can hear the rush of the fountains of Banias—­the holy springs of Hermon, whence Jordan is born.  But what is this?  The odor of the velvety weed of Shiraz meets my nostrils; a dark-eyed son of Pan places the narghileh at my feet; and, bubbling more sweetly than the streams of Jordan, the incense most dear to the god dims the crystal censer, and floats from my lips in rhythmic ejaculations.  I, too, am in Arcadia!

Chapter VIII.

Crossing the Anti-Lebanon.

  The Harmless Guard—­Caesarea Philippi—­The Valley of the Druses—­The
  Sides of Mount Hermon—­An Alarm—­Threading a Defile—­Distant view of
  Djebel Hauaran—­Another Alarm—­Camp at Katana—­We Ride into Damascus.

Damascus, May 12, 1852.

We rose early, so as to be ready for a long march.  The guard came—­a mild-looking Arab—­without arms; but on our refusing to take him thus, he brought a Turkish musket, terrible to behold, but quite guiltless of any murderous intent.  We gave ourselves up to fate, with true Arab-resignation, and began ascending the Anti-Lebanon.  Up and up, by stony paths, under the oaks, beside the streams, and between the wheat-fields, we climbed for two hours, and at last reached a comb or dividing ridge, whence we could look into a valley on the other side, or rather inclosed between the main chain and the offshoot named Djebel Heish, which stretches away towards the south-east.  About half-way up the ascent, we passed the ruined acropolis of Caesarea Philippi, crowning the summit of a lower peak.  The walls and bastions cover a great extent of ground, and were evidently used as a stronghold in the Middle Ages.

The valley into which we descended lay directly under one of the peaks of Hermon and the rills that watered it were fed from his snow-fields.  It was inhabited by Druses, but no men were to be seen, except a few poor husbandmen, ploughing on the mountain-sides.  The women, wearing those enormous horns on their heads which distinguish them from the Mohammedan females, were washing at a pool below.  We crossed the valley, and slowly ascended the height on the opposite side, taking care to keep with the baggage-mules.  Up to this time, we met very few persons; and we forgot the anticipated perils in contemplating the rugged scenery of the Anti-Lebanon.  The mountain-sides were brilliant with flowers, and many new and beautiful specimens arrested our attention.  The asphodel grew in bunches beside the streams, and the large scarlet anemone outshone even the poppy, whose color here is the quintessence of flame.  Five hours