Taking the easy gradient at the west end of the church, between the grassy slopes planted with lilacs and other shrubs and trees, we arrived at the grotto.  A huge platform was in course of erection, for the great pilgrimage expected from England in about a week, and the noise of the workmen combined with the sparse gathering of “worshippers” detracted greatly from the former pitiable solemnity of the scene, though the stand of candles was flaring with light, and the crutches, in their horrid rows, were still there.

We left Lourdes again at three o’clock, the sun still very warm, as the lazy attitudes of the peasants working in the fields attested; and, passing several crosses at the roadside—­“ornamented” with pincers, hammer, nails, and sword, with a bantam cock on the top—­reached the base of the col (600 feet high) which separates the respective basins of the Adour and the Echez.  Half-way up the hill we discovered Mr. Sydney, who had walked on ahead, very busy with a team of oxen, towards which, having encountered them without a driver, he had taken upon himself to act as “guide, philosopher, and friend”; and by dint of great application of his umbrella, open and shut, in the last-mentioned capacity, he brought them to, and kept them at, a standstill by the side of the road till the carriage passed.

From the top of the hill we enjoyed an extensive view, the Pic du Midi de Bigorre standing out wonderfully clear.  Descending again, we joined the Tarbes road crowded with market carts, and leaving the village of Montgaillard on the left, duly arrived at Bagneres de Bigorre, where we were received with open arms by Monsieur and Madame Bourdette.

The morrow being Sunday, was spent in resting, the magnificent weather still continuing.  The trees on the Coustous and the different hills around were at length well covered with foliage, and gave a prettier appearance to the town, which the ever-flowing streams by the roadsides greatly added to.  In the evening the Orpheon (or local Choral Society) gave an open-air concert from the roof of one of the Coustous cafes.  A tremendous crowd of some 2000 persons had gathered under the trees to listen, and kept perfectly still while the songs proceeded.  The solos were not particularly wonderful, but the beautiful blending of the voices in the Pyrenean part-songs was a very great treat, and the sounds, floating deliciously away on the soft evening air, could be heard like some whispering echo for a long distance.

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We had some difficulty in arranging for a carriage, on the following day, for Luchon, as a great number had been engaged for the fete at Payole, and for those not yet taken high prices—­considering the time of year—­were asked.  Not wishing, however, to lose a day, we settled for a landau and three horses to do the journey in two days—­for 110 francs, including pourboire—­stopping the night at Arreau.  The day broke, like its predecessors, perfectly fine, and at 10.30 we made our adieus to Bigorre, and were on our way.