But this was not all—­nor nearly all—­for not only had we the view of the grand rocky gorge from which the river issues above, but we could also take the easy gradient down to the riverside itself, which leads from the near side of the bridge, as well as survey the loveliness from the terrace at the base of the arch, on the side beyond.  Having crossed this fine piece of engineering, and passed the pillar surmounted by an eagle erected in honour of Napoleon III. and the Empress Eugenie, we found the road led at right angles in both directions.  The one to the right, to Gavarnie, we hoped to take thither later; the one to the left, leading to Luz, we followed there and then.  After curving once or twice within view of the bridge, it bifurcates, forming an upper and a lower route, both of which lead to Luz, if desired.  The lower, which is the direct route from Gavarnie to Luz, we abstained from taking, preferring the upper road to the right, which leads past fields resplendent with flowers (among which the “bee” orchid is noticeable), to the chapel of Solferino.

The view from the hill on which the chapel is built is an excellent one.  Looking towards Luz, several small villages may be seen up the Bareges valley, with the Pic de Mont Aigu, and the Pic d’Ayre (7931 feet) on the right, and—­immediately over against the town—­the Pic de Nere on the left.  Looking towards Pierrefitte, other small villages, and the whole of the Luz valley; on the left, St. Sauveur, and, above the almost indistinguishable village of Sassis, the Col de Riou, with the Pic de Viscos beyond.  Looking towards the Pont Napoleon, the Pic de Bergons (6792 ft.) towers up on the left, and on the right may be easily noted the toothed Pic du Lac Grand the Col d’Aubiste, and the loftier Pic (8863 ft.) of the same name, besides a glimpse of pastures and foaming cascades as well.  There is very little in the chapel itself except its history and its cold atmosphere.  It is supposed to be an exact copy of the ancient Hermitage of St. Peter, which formerly stood on the same spot.  The bones of the last good man, for whom “gaieties had no attraction whatever,” and who consequently shut himself up for “years and years” in the dismal building, were collected by Napoleon III.’s command, and buried under the statue erected in front.  There is a woman that calls herself the guardian (not angel) of the place, and demands a small gratuity in exchange for any amount of unnecessary talking; judging by her appearance, we decided she was not a hermit nor a particularly small eater either, though her stature was decidedly diminutive.  Two tracks lead from this hill to Luz.  One winding down on the left forms the branch route to St. Sauveur, the other, to the right—­which we took—­passes the cemetery, and leaving the new church in the same direction, leads to the back of the ancient fane of the Templars, through the town.