The bathing establishment and its surroundings—­The lovely Allees—­Montauban church and cascade—­The Villa Russe and its genial host—­Various excursions—­Orphanage of Notre Dame de Rocher—­The Vallee du Lys—­The Rue d’Enfer and cascades—­A lively scene—­The view from Superbagneres—­Loading wood—­“The Oxen’s Appeal”—­Visit to the Orphanage—­A “holy” relic—­To Bosost—­St. Mamet—­“A stumbling-block”—­Cascade of Sidonie—­Horse tricks and jockey dodges—­Lizards in flight—­Fashion on a donkey—­On the Portillon ’twixt France and Spain—­The valley of Aran—­Snug Bosost—­A curious inn—­Children with artistic bent—­A bright pathway—­Missing much, but thankful still

CHAPTER XI.

St. Bertrand de Comminges.

Keeping to old friends—­Valley history—­Entering the Garonne valley—­The picturesque St. Beat—­St. Beat to Viella—­Memories of the lovely Thames—­Baths of Ste. Marie—­Loures—­The cross-roads—­Weak walls—­Entering St. Bertrand—­An ancient house—­The inn—­A charming garden—­The cathedral—­A national disgrace—­“The Crocodile of St. Bertrand”—­The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon—­Travelling desecraters—­St. Bertrand’s rod—­The ruined cloisters—­Desolation—­Swine feeding—­Montrejeau—­The buffet—­No milk!—­French railway officials—­Trying experiences

CHAPTER XII.

Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes.

Carriage v. diligence—­Early birds—­Height of absurdity —­Diminutive donkeys—­A whitened region—­“Crystal clear”—­Washerwomen and their gamps—­A useful townhall—­A half-way house—­Moralising—­A much-loved pipe—­An historic ruin—­A noteworthy strong box—­“Ici on rase”—­Where are the bears?—­Women in gaiters—­Picturesque costumes—­A lovely road—­A “perfect” cure—­A spring scene—­A billiard-playing priest—­A well-placed pavilion—­The Valentin and its cascades—­ Through solid rock—­Gaps in the road—­A grand scene—­Wanted, an artist—­A fine torrent—­Professional fishers—­Lucky guests —­Musings—­Poor Mr. Tubbins—­Bonnes v.  Chaudes—­Over the Col de Gourzy—­Peculiar teams—­Guelder roses—­Spinning

CHAPTER XIII.

Biarritz.

A warm ride—­Bayonne—­A “Noah’s ark” landscape—­ Amusements—­Bathing—­Shells—­Cavillers—­A canine feat—­The pier and rocks—­A restless sea—­“The Three Cormorants”—­Dragon’s-mouth Rock—­To the lighthouse—­Maiden-hair ferns—­Mrs. Blunt’s adventure—­The drive round the lakes—­Osmunda regalis ferns—­The pine-woods near the bar—­St. Etienne and the Guards’ cemetery—­Croix de Mouguere—­Cambo and the Pas de Roland—­Anemones—­A fat couple—­A French scholar—­Hendaye—­ Fuenterabia—­A quaint old-world town—­The Bidassoa—­Pasages—­San Sebastien—­The Citadol and graves—­The “Silent Sisters”—­Raised prices—­Parasols and spectacles