[Illustration:  THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES.]

The journey from Gabas to Panticosa requires a good twelve hours, and generally more; consequently an early start is advisable.  It is a favourite way of entering Spain, and much more practicable than the route from Cauterets to the same spot.

Of Eaux Chaudes itself there is but little to say, for with the exception of the hotels, the bathing establishment, and a few shops, there is nothing to form a town.  Like Eaux Bonnes it is shut in by the mountains on either side, but it is more oblong in shape, with two parallel streets.  The Promenade du Henri IV., which leads southwards from the Hotel Baudot along the side of the river, is a cool and pleasant walk, especially of an evening.

Various opinions exist as to which place is most suitable for a residence, the “Bonnes” or the “Chaudes.”  In spring probably the former, but the latter certainly in summer; for not only is it free from the bustling, gaily-dressed crowd which throngs its rival, but there is a fresh breeze that blows up the valley which renders it always cool and pleasant; while the scenery is as fine as the most fastidious could wish for.

The Col de Gourzy and the lofty Pic of the same name tower above Eaux Chaudes, and a route to Eaux Bonnes—­which to good pedestrians is well worth the exertion—­passes over the former.  The path strikes off from the Gabas road to the left, while yet in the town, and passes by the Minvieille “buvette.”  For the first half-hour the route is the same as that to the Eaux Chaudes grotto; this is an excursion, of two hours there and back, that is in great favour with tourists.  Where the path forks, the one to the grotto is left on the right, and after some fatiguing work the Plateau de Gourzy is reached, from which the view on a fine day is splendid.  The track then leads through beech glades and box thickets to the “Fontaine de Lagas” (near which a wild and beautiful valley branches off to the right), and finally joins the Promenade Jacqueminot at Eaux Bonnes.  Horses may be taken the whole distance, but it is easier for them—­if tourists choose this highly-recommended route—­when the start is made from Eaux Bonnes.

It rained severely early on the morning of our departure, but later, cleared up into a lovely day, enabling us to start at 8.30.  The river and the cascades were full, and the sun glinting on the wet leaves gave a fairy-like appearance to this magnificent gorge.  As we looked back from the cascade, which seemed to tumble from the summit of the Pic de Laruns, the clouds gradually rising over the head of the valley disclosed a huge snow mountain [Footnote:  The “cocher” called it the Pic d’Estremere, but we had no confirmation of this] to view, that appeared to form an impassable barrier ’twixt France and Spain.