The border country passed, the natives grew more friendly, and gladly supplied all the wants of the travelers.  About the middle of December, when their journey was half over, they came upon the first traces of Europeans—­a deserted town, a ruined church, and a broken bell inscribed with a cross and the letters I. H. S., but bearing no date.  A few days after they met a man wearing a hat and jacket.  He had come from the Portuguese settlement of Tete, far down the river.  From him they learned that a war was going on below, between the Portuguese and the natives.  A chief, named Mpende, showed signs of hostility.  Livingstone’s men, who had become worn and ragged by their long journey, rejoiced at the prospect of a fight.  “Now,” said they, “we shall get corn and clothes in plenty.  You have seen us with elephants, but you don’t know what we can do with men.”  After a while two old men made their appearance, to find out who the strangers were.  “I am a Lekoa (Englishman),” said Livingstone.  “We don’t know that tribe,” they replied; “we suppose you are a Mozunga (Portuguese).”  Upon Livingstone’s showing them his long hair and the white skin of his bosom they exclaimed, “We never saw so white a skin as that.  You must be one of that tribe that loves the black men.”  Livingstone eagerly assured him that such was the case.  Sekwebu, the leader of his men, put in a word:  “Ah, if you only knew him as well as we do, who have lived with him, you would know how highly he values your friendship; and as he is a stranger he trusts in you to direct him.”  The chief, convinced that he was an Englishman, received the party hospitably and forwarded them on their way.

The frequent appearance of English goods showed that they were approaching the coast, and not long afterward Livingstone met a couple of native traders, from whom, for two small tusks, he bought a quantity of American cotton marked “Lawrence Mills, Lowell”, which he distributed among his men.

For another month they traveled slowly on through a fertile country, abounding in animal life, bagging an elephant or a buffalo when short of meat.  Lions are numerous, but the natives, believing that the souls of their dead chiefs enter the bodies of these animals, into which they also have the power, when living, of transforming themselves at will, never kill them.  When they meet a lion they salute him by clapping their hands—­a courtesy which his Highness frequently returns by making a meal of them.

In this region the women are decidedly in the ascendant.  The bridegroom is obliged to come to the village of the bride to live.  Here he must perform certain services for his mother-in-law, such as keeping her always supplied with fire-wood.  Above all things, he must always, when in her presence, sit with his legs bent under him, it being considered a mark of disrespect to present his feet toward her.  If he wishes to leave the village, he must not take his children with him; they belong to his wife, or, rather, to her family.  He can, however, by the payment of a certain number of cattle, “buy up” his wife and children.  When a man is desired to perform any service he always asks his wife’s consent; if she refuses, no amount of bribery or coaxing will induce him to disobey her.