We crossed the rivulets Kapopo and Ue, now running, but usually dry.  There are great numbers of wild grape-vines growing in this quarter; indeed, they abound every where along the banks of the Zambesi.  In the Batoka country there is a variety which yields a black grape of considerable sweetness.  The leaves are very large and harsh, as if capable of withstanding the rays of this hot sun; but the most common kinds—­one with a round leaf and a greenish grape, and another with a leaf closely resembling that of the cultivated varieties, and with dark or purple fruit—­have large seeds, which are strongly astringent, and render it a disagreeable fruit.  The natives eat all the varieties; and I tasted vinegar made by a Portuguese from these grapes.  Probably a country which yields the wild vines so very abundantly might be a fit one for the cultivated species.  At this part of the journey so many of the vines had run across the little footpath we followed that one had to be constantly on the watch to avoid being tripped.  The ground was covered with rounded shingle, which was not easily seen among the grass.  Pedestrianism may be all very well for those whose obesity requires much exercise, but for one who was becoming as thin as a lath, through the constant perspiration caused by marching day after day in the hot sun, the only good I saw in it was that it gave an honest sort of man a vivid idea of the tread-mill.

Although the rains were not quite over, great numbers of pools were drying up, and the ground was in many parts covered with small green cryptogamous plants, which gave it a mouldy appearance and a strong smell.  As we sometimes pushed aside the masses of rank vegetation which hung over our path, we felt a sort of hot blast on our faces.  Every thing looked unwholesome, but we had no fever.  The Ue flows between high banks of a soft red sandstone streaked with white, and pieces of tufa.  The crumbling sandstone is evidently alluvial, and is cut into 12 feet deep.  In this region, too, we met with pot-holes six feet deep and three or four in diameter.  In some cases they form convenient wells; in others they are full of earth; and in others still the people have made them into graves for their chiefs.

On the 20th we came to Monina’s village (close to the sand-river Tangwe, latitude 16d 13’ 38” south, longitude 32d 32’ east).  This man is very popular among the tribes on account of his liberality.  Boroma, Nyampungo, Monina, Jira, Katolosa (Monomotapa), and Susa, all acknowledge the supremacy of one called Nyatewe, who is reported to decide all disputes respecting land.  This confederation is exactly similar to what we observed in Londa and other parts of Africa.  Katolosa is “the Emperor Monomotapa” of history, but he is a chief of no great power, and acknowledges the supremacy of Nyatewe.  The Portuguese formerly honored Monomotapa with a guard, to fire off numbers of guns on the occasion of any funeral, and he was also partially subsidized.