Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi—­Hostile Appearances—­Ruins of a Church—­Turmoil of Spirit—­Cross the River—­Friendly Parting—­Ruins of stone Houses—­The Situation of Zumbo for Commerce—­Pleasant Gardens—­Dr. Lacerda’s Visit to Cazembe—­Pereira’s Statement—­Unsuccessful Attempt to establish Trade with the People of Cazembe—­One of my Men tossed by a Buffalo—­Meet a Man with Jacket and Hat on—­Hear of the Portuguese and native War—­Holms and Terraces on the Banks of a River—­Dancing for Corn—­Beautiful Country—­Mpende’s Hostility—­Incantations—­A Fight anticipated—­Courage and Remarks of my Men—­Visit from two old Councilors of Mpende—­Their Opinion of the English—­Mpende concludes not to fight us—­His subsequent Friendship—­Aids us to cross the River—­The Country—­Sweet Potatoes—­Bakwain Theory of Rain confirmed—­Thunder without Clouds—­Desertion of one of my Men—­Other Natives’ Ideas of the English—­Dalama (gold)—­Inhabitants dislike Slave-buyers—­Meet native Traders with American Calico—­Game-laws—­ Elephant Medicine—­Salt from the Sand—­Fertility of Soil—­Spotted Hyaena—­Liberality and Politeness of the People—­Presents—­A stingy white Trader—­Natives’ Remarks about him—­Effect on their Minds—­Rain and Wind now from an opposite Direction—­Scarcity of Fuel—­Trees for Boat-building—­Boroma—­Freshets—­Leave the River—­Chicova, its Geological Features—­Small Rapid near Tete—­Loquacious Guide—­Nyampungo, the Rain-charmer—­An old Man—­No Silver—­Gold-washing—­No Cattle.

14Th.  We reached the confluence of the Loangwa and the Zambesi, most thankful to God for his great mercies in helping us thus far.  Mburuma’s people had behaved so suspiciously, that, though we had guides from him, we were by no means sure that we should not be attacked in crossing the Loangwa.  We saw them here collecting in large numbers, and, though professing friendship, they kept at a distance from our camp.  They refused to lend us more canoes than two, though they have many.  They have no intercourse with Europeans except through the Babisa.  They tell us that this was formerly the residence of the Bazunga, and maintain silence as to the cause of their leaving it.  I walked about some ruins I discovered, built of stone, and found the remains of a church, and on one side lay a broken bell, with the letters I. H. S. and a cross, but no date.  There were no inscriptions on stone, and the people could not tell what the Bazunga called their place.  We found afterward it was Zumbo.

I felt some turmoil of spirit in the evening at the prospect of having all my efforts for the welfare of this great region and its teeming population knocked on the head by savages to-morrow, who might be said to “know not what they do.”  It seemed such a pity that the important fact of the existence of the two healthy ridges which I had discovered should not become known in Christendom, for a confirmation would thereby have been given to the idea that Africa is not open to the Gospel.  But I read that Jesus