covered with trees; the tops of the columns at this
distance appeared to mingle with the clouds.
They were white below, and higher up became dark, so
as to simulate smoke very closely. The whole
scene was extremely beautiful; the banks and islands
dotted over the river are adorned with sylvan vegetation
of great variety of color and form. At the period
of our visit several trees were spangled over with
blossoms. Trees have each their own physiognomy.
There, towering over all, stands the great burly baobab,
each of whose enormous arms would form the trunk of
a large tree, beside groups of graceful palms, which,
with their feathery-shaped leaves depicted on the
sky, lend their beauty to the scene. As a hieroglyphic
they always mean “far from home”, for one
can never get over their foreign air in a picture
or landscape. The silvery mohonono, which in
the tropics is in form like the cedar of Lebanon, stands
in pleasing contrast with the dark color of the motsouri,
whose cypress-form is dotted over at present with
its pleasant scarlet fruit. Some trees resemble
the great spreading oak, others assume the character
of our own elms and chestnuts; but no one can imagine
the beauty of the view from any thing witnessed in
England. It had never been seen before by European
eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon
by angels in their flight. The only want felt
is that of mountains in the background. The falls
are bounded on three sides by ridges 300 or 400 feet
in height, which are covered with forest, with the
red soil appearing among the trees. When about
half a mile from the falls, I left the canoe by which
we had come down thus far, and embarked in a lighter
one, with men well acquainted with the rapids, who,
by passing down the centre of the stream in the eddies
and still places caused by many jutting rocks, brought
me to an island situated in the middle of the river,
and on the edge of the lip over which the water rolls.
In coming hither there was danger of being swept down
by the streams which rushed along on each side of
the island; but the river was now low, and we sailed
where it is totally impossible to go when the water
is high. But, though we had reached the island,
and were within a few yards of the spot, a view from
which would solve the whole problem, I believe that
no one could perceive where the vast body of water
went; it seemed to lose itself in the earth, the opposite
lip of the fissure into which it disappeared being
only 80 feet distant. At least I did not comprehend
it until, creeping with awe to the verge, I peered
down into a large rent which had been made from bank
to bank of the broad Zambesi, and saw that a stream
of a thousand yards broad leaped down a hundred feet,
and then became suddenly compressed into a space of
fifteen or twenty yards. The entire falls are
simply a crack made in a hard basaltic rock from the
right to the left bank of the Zambesi, and then prolonged
from the left bank away through thirty or forty miles


