and I, with about forty young men, waited outside the tsetse till dark.  We then went forward, and about ten o’clock it became so pitchy dark that both horses and men were completely blinded.  The lightning spread over the sky, forming eight or ten branches at a time, in shape exactly like those of a tree.  This, with great volumes of sheet-lightning, enabled us at times to see the whole country.  The intervals between the flashes were so densely dark as to convey the idea of stone-blindness.  The horses trembled, cried out, and turned round, as if searching for each other, and every new flash revealed the men taking different directions, laughing, and stumbling against each other.  The thunder was of that tremendously loud kind only to be heard in tropical countries, and which friends from India have assured me is louder in Africa than any they have ever heard elsewhere.  Then came a pelting rain, which completed our confusion.  After the intense heat of the day, we soon felt miserably cold, and turned aside to a fire we saw in the distance.  This had been made by some people on their march; for this path is seldom without numbers of strangers passing to and from the capital.  My clothing having gone on, I lay down on the cold ground, expecting to spend a miserable night; but Sekeletu kindly covered me with his own blanket, and lay uncovered himself.  I was much affected by this act of genuine kindness.  If such men must perish by the advance of civilization, as certain races of animals do before others, it is a pity.  God grant that ere this time comes they may receive that Gospel which is a solace for the soul in death!

While at Sesheke, Sekeletu supplied me with twelve oxen—­three of which were accustomed to being ridden upon—­hoes, and beads to purchase a canoe when we should strike the Leeambye beyond the falls.  He likewise presented abundance of good fresh butter and honey, and did every thing in his power to make me comfortable for the journey.  I was entirely dependent on his generosity, for the goods I originally brought from the Cape were all expended by the time I set off from Linyanti to the west coast.  I there drew 70 Pounds of my salary, paid my men with it, and purchased goods for the return journey to Linyanti.  These being now all expended, the Makololo again fitted me out, and sent me on to the east coast.  I was thus dependent on their bounty, and that of other Africans, for the means of going from Linyanti to Loanda, and again from Linyanti to the east coast, and I feel deeply grateful to them.  Coin would have been of no benefit, for gold and silver are quite unknown.  We were here joined by Moriantsane, uncle of Sekeletu and head man of Sesheke, and, entering canoes on the 13th, some sailed down the river to the confluence of the Chobe, while others drove the cattle along the banks, spending one night at Mparia, the island at the confluence of the Chobe, which is composed of trap, having crystals of quartz in it coated with