9_th_.—­This morning we procured four mules and four men, and proceeded on our pilgrimage towards Livadia, thirty-three miles from Delphi.  Our kind host recommended us to the special care of one of the muleteers, who put his hand to his heart, and feelingly accepted the trust.  We were most of the day winding round Parnassus, whose height above us was tremendous.  The road was frightful; over rocks, waters, and swampy ground; we could hardly have believed it possible to pass through the places where our mules penetrated.  The muleteer performed his trust faithfully, rendering us all the assistance in his power.  On parting we presented him with some tracts; he could read, and was much gratified with the gift.

At Livadia we were badly lodged, in a smoky room, and suffered much from extreme fatigue; but we found ourselves with an interesting family, to whom we read the Scriptures, seated with them on the floor; and we could not but feel grateful to our Divine Master, for leading us among those who were thirsting to receive the Holy Scriptures in a language they could understand.

10_th_.—­We travelled on horses through a comparatively flat country, despoiled of all its verdure by the ruthless hand of war.  The evening was wet; we reached the once celebrated Thebes in the dark, and were glad to take shelter in a smoky room, in the first house that could receive us.  The situation is fine, but the present town occupies only the part which was the fortress of ancient Thebes.

11_th_.—­This day we had much mountain country to pass through.  Every tree we could see was either partly burnt or partly cut away.  Towards the end of our day’s travel we went through an immense wood, difficult of passage, on leaving which the Gulf of Aegina appeared in view.  We rested for the night at a little settlement of Albanians near the coast.  We obtained shelter in the cottage of an old woman, who seemed a little startled at the appearance of strangers, whose language she could not understand.  Concluding, however, that we had the common wants of nature, and having no bread to offer us, she quickly prepared a little meal, made a cake, and baked it on the hearth under the ashes.  We made signs to be furnished with a vessel in which we might prepare a little chocolate, our frequent repast under such circumstances; and, at length, a very rough homely-looking pitcher was produced; but the greater difficulty was to find something in which to boil the milk and water.  After waiting till their own soup had been prepared, we obtained the use of the saucepan.  These difficulties overcome, we enjoyed our meal; and offered some to a Greek woman who had walked beside our mules for the sake of company, on her dreary journey to Athens; but she refused, with thanks, saying, I am not sick; for the Greeks seldom take beverage of this sort, except when they are indisposed.  As the inmates of this homely cottage, as well as the neighbors, who usually come