light sprung up, and we thought if we could take a boat and cross over to Scala, a little port on the opposite side of the creek, we might then take mules to [Castri the ancient] Delphi, and if not able to proceed further on our way, the change we hoped would be use to M.Y.  We did make the effort, and were favored to get to Scala, where we found only a few scattered mud houses; but on landing, there was a change of feeling immediately experienced.  We were rescued from ship-builders and sailors, the vilest of the vile, and placed among a simple country people.

The master of the custom-house, to whom we had a few lines of recommendation, invited us to his house and gave us coffee.  He provided us with four mules; three for the interpreter and ourselves, and the fourth for the baggage.  It was about eight miles, or two and a half hours’ ride, to Delphi; and no sooner had we begun to feel the mountain air than my dear M. began to revive.  We had to climb precipices where nothing but mules could have carried us.  At the foot of the mountain we came in company with two camels, which was a new sight to us.

The situation of Delphi is the most beautiful that eyes can behold:  mountains of rock, such as we never before saw, and in the back ground the far-famed Parnassus, covered with snow.  The village consists of about one hundred cottages, some of them built in the rock.  We were conducted to one of the best of these rustic dwellings, and met with a very friendly reception from the inmates.  The house consisted of two rooms, and we were offered the use of one of them; they furnished us with mattresses laid upon a sort of dresser, where we slept much better than for many previous nights; even the hen and her thirteen chickens under our bed did not disturb us.  The novelty of the visiters soon brought in several of the neighbors, who did not leave us, even while we took our tea.  As there was a good feeling, we thought it well to improve the opportunity, and inquired who could read.  The master of the house, a sensible man, said there were only about twenty in the village who know anything of letters, but that he could both read and write, for his father was a priest.

After tea we produced a New Testament and the book of Genesis, and our interpreter read aloud the first two chapters of Genesis.  Our host had never seen the Scriptures in his own language, and we think we never beheld a countenance more full of delight and intelligence than his was during the reading.  After a short explanation of what had been read, and a word of exhortation, we thought to close; but the company were so pleased with hearing the account of the creation and fall of man [from the sacred record itself], that they requested us to read more.  I desired them to ask any questions on the subject they might wish; and the first which our host put was, What kind of tree it was, the fruit of which Adam was forbidden to eat?  We answered that it was translated in our language apple.  He said