They visited the schools and the prison, and they received from the Resident, H.G.  Tennyson, and the schoolmaster and mistress, a friendly reception; but the islanders are generally careless of instruction, and progress of all kinds is slow.

From Cephalonia they traversed the sea to the beautiful island of Zante.  Though they had ten men to row, the passage occupied thirteen hours.

Contrary wind, writes John Yeardley, compelled us to approach the island slowly, which gave us an opportunity of viewing the villages and scattered houses at the foot of the mountain.  The town of Zante is very long; the main street has piazzas on each side for a considerable distance.  In many of the windows (I suppose a Turkish custom) there are something like cages, through which the women peep without being seen, under the pretence of modesty; but it is horrid to hear of the wickedness committed in-doors.  However, I am glad to find the custom is dying away, and that the young women are now permitted to walk in public more than they were a few years ago.  This island is by far the finest we have visited; it is very fertile and well cultivated, and supplies England with currants; but, like their neighbors, the people have the character of being immoral, treacherous, and revengeful.  It is sorrowful to think that, under the system of picture-worship, there is scarcely a sin of which the poor Greek is not guilty to an enormous extent.  With God all things are possible—­he can change the hard heart of man by the power of his Divine Spirit; but, morally speaking, it must be some great convulsion that can work a real change in the nation.  W.O.  Croggon has labored here more than seven years, and knows not of one conversion among the rich Greeks—­not one attends the service for worship.  He is the Methodist missionary here, and is called the friend of every man:  he has been a real friend to us.

The Governor and his wife have paid us marked attention.  The former took us to see the prison, which is well conducted, and the prisoners are classed.  We suggested the benefit likely to result from the prisoners being employed, and Major Longley [the Governor] intends to introduce basket-making.  We have, in addition to the public schools, visited several private ones, and are pleased to find so many children receiving education:  this is really the chief source of hope for improving the morals of the Greeks, and dispersing the gross darkness which surrounds this people, whose long servitude and sufferings under very hard masters have almost driven them back to barbarism.

17_th_.—­There was a shock of earthquake, more violent than has been felt for some years in this place.  Our room shook almost like a ship at sea; the walls, beds, tables, and glasses were all in motion, and the sensation, while it lasted, was that of sea-sickness.  The noise may be compared to the rolling of a carriage with many horses coming at full speed, and suddenly stopping at the dwelling. (See Eastern Customs, p. 78.)