About 9 o’clock we started in the Captain’s boat, a family party, not leaving even the baby at home.  We had a pleasant sail of less than an hour, and found seven ponies waiting for us at the landing-place.  The ponies were brought into the sea, and we mounted the pack-saddles; some of our company being carried from the boat on men’s backs.  Thus arranged we set out, one by one, along the narrow goat-paths, accompanied by our retinue, some going before, and some following with the baggage.  We winded our way among bushes of myrtle and mastic till we reached the willow-city.  It consists of about sixty perfect wigwams of one room each, with no other light but what is admitted by the doorway, four feet high, with here and there a glimpse that makes its way through the wattles.

The people having received notice of our visit had made a general-holiday, and were all assembled, with lively good-humor in their countenances, to greet our arrival.  This in the first year that they have been left to enjoy their lands in peace since the destruction by the Turks of their little town, which stood at about half an hour’s distance.  Some of them possess property in land and cattle, and all live on the produce of their own farms, and produce their own clothing.  These simple-hearted people show their good sense by avoiding all lawsuits, so common among the Greeks.  They choose one upright old man, with two assistants, to govern them, to whose judgment they submit, and the greatest punishment is to be shut up for two or three days in a solitary room in the convent.

The wigwam where we alighted was soon filled with visitors.  We were served with coffee by our hostess,—­an interesting woman, with much expression of mildness in her countenance.  After conversing awhile with the villagers, and satisfying their curiosity as well as we could, I thought it a suitable time to bring about the primary object of our visit, and inquired who among them could read.  A young man came forward who had been educated in the school at Santa Maura; we gave him a New Testament, and he read the greater part of a chapter in the Gospels.  Those who were in the room listened with surprise and attention, and many without looked eagerly in at the doorway to hear what was going on.  This was probably the first time they had heard the gospel in their own language.  We gave them a few copies of the New Testament and some tracts, for which they hardly knew how to express their gratitude; and we requested the reader to continue the practice he had commenced.

When this scene of interest was over we took a turn round the other huts.  They are situated on the side of the hill, among myrtles, and command a delightful view of the valley.  We passed by the common oven, and on looking in saw our dinner preparing.  The table was spread in the hospitable wigwam which we first entered, a clean white tablecloth and napkins on a large board, with cushions around on boxes for chairs.  The repast consisted of a whole lamb, well roasted, and two sorts of Yorkshire-pudding, one of which was particularly good.