the castle of Dover, thinking thereby to have brought in subjection this county of Kent also.  But Stigande, the archbishop, perceiving the danger assembled the countrymen together and laid before them the intolerable pride of the Normans that invaded them and their own miserable condition if they should yield unto them.  By which means they so enraged the common people that they ran forthwith to weapon and meeting at Swanscombe elected the archbishop and the abbot for their captains.  This done each man got him a green bough in his hand and beare it over his head in such sort as when the Duke approached, he was much amazed therewith, thinking at first that it had been some miraculous wood that moved towards him.  But they as soon as he came within hearing cast away their boughs from them, and at the sound of a trumpet bewraied their weapons, and withall despatched towards him a messenger, which spake unto him in this manner:—­’The Commons of Kent, most noble Duke, are ready to offer thee either peace or war, at thy own choice and election; Peace with their faithfull obedience if thou wilt permit them to enjoy their ancient liberties; Warr, and that most deadly, if thou deny it them.’”

They prevailed according to the legend and this as some say is the difference between the Men of Kent and the Kentish Men, for the former retained their old liberties and were never conquered, and these dwelt in the valley of Holmsdale; but the rest were merely victi.  As the old rhyme has it—­

The vale of Holmsdale
Never conquered, never shall.

It is pleasing with the memory of all this in one’s heart—­and upon it there is a famous song—­to come upon Swanscombe church, in which much would seem to be of Saxon times, as parts of the walls of both nave and chancel, and the lower part of the tower, where one may see signs of Roman brick.  The nave, however, at least within, is late Norman if not Transitional, and the windows in the chancel are Norman and Early English.  Here, too, is the tomb of Sir Anthony Weldon, the malicious gossip [Footnote:  He was the author of “The Secret History of the first Two Stuart Kings” and of “A Catt may look at a King, or a Briefe Chronicle and Character of the Kings of England...”] of the time of James I., who had acted as clerk of the kitchen to Elizabeth.  His wife lies opposite him with others of his family.  It is more interesting for us, however, to note that in Chaucer’s day the church was chiefly famous for its shrine of St Hildefrith, a soveran advocate against the vapours.

I left Swanscombe in the early afternoon, and passing through Northfleet with its great church of St Botolph I followed the road with many happy glimpses of the Thames, avoiding Gravesend and making southward for the Watling Street, which I found at last, and an old Inn at the cross roads upon it.  Thence I marched upon what I took to be the veritable way and was presently assured of this at Singlewell, which it is said was