won the concession, for all Christians, of the right, not only to trade freely, but to practise their religion in Persia.  For five months he remained at the court of the Shah, and then returned to Europe as his ambassador to invite all Christian powers to ally themselves with Persia against the Turk.  He went first to Moscow, where he was, however, treated with contempt, as was his mission.  He went to Prague and was well received.  At last, in 1601, after visiting Nuremberg, Augsburg, Munich, Innsbruck, and Trent, he arrived in Rome, and, professing enthusiasm for the Faith his father had repudiated, was well received.  The truth was, he was in grave money difficulties, and indeed in 1603 was arrested by the Venetians and imprisoned “in a certain obscure island near unto Scio.”  The English Government, however, came to his aid and obtained his release, but refused him permission to return to England.  He went to Prague, and thence on the business of the Emperor to Morocco.  There he was received in great state and remained five months.  Before leaving, however, he released certain Portuguese whom he found in slavery, and sailed with them for Lisbon, where he hoped to reimburse himself for their ransom.  In this he was disappointed, so on he went to Madrid, where he was made very much of and promised the Order of Sant’Iago.  In the service now of Spain, he went to Naples in 1607, after a visit to the Emperor at Prague where he was created a Count of the Holy Roman Empire.  He seems to have travelled considerably in Southern Italy, and after a brief visit, to obtain money, to Madrid, set out for Sicily in command of a fleet to attack the Moors and Turks.  He achieved nothing and was dismissed.  In 1611 he appeared again in Madrid in utter poverty, but the King took compassion upon him and gave him a pension, and in Madrid he remained writing an account of his adventures till he died in beggary.  The English ambassador notes in 1619, “The poor man sometimes comes to my house and is as full of vanity as ever he was, making himself believe that he shall one day be a great prince.”  It might indeed seem a long road from Wiston under the Downs to the Gulf of Guinea, the Quays of Venice, Constantinople, the Euphrates, Babylon, Moscow, Prague, Rome, and Morocco, to die at last a beggar in purse, but in heart a great Prince in Madrid.

Now, when I had been reminded of all this, I was directed to visit Buncton Chapel to the north of Wiston Park, where I found indeed some Norman work in the nave and chancel arch.  And so I went on my way through the failing afternoon by that beautiful road within sight of the high Downs to the Washington Inn, where I slept, for it is a quiet place not to be passed by.

And on the morrow I went on my way, still through as fair a country as is to be found in all South England, through Storrington, and so by way of Parham Park, with its noble Elizabethan house and little church with the last leaden font in Sussex, a work of the fourteenth century, to Amberley in the meads of the Arun, a dear and beautiful place.