Durango is an industrial town situated 30km east from Bilbao in the Biscay province, in the Basque Country (northern Spain). It has 26,131 inhabitants (2004). The town is crossed by three rivers (as illustrated in the town symbol) the Ibaizabal river being the principle, and lies in the middle of its wide valley, with the scenic Urkiola mountain range and natural park to the south. The most important peak is the majestic Anboto (1331m).
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History
Durango is a historic city, home of conquistadors like Francisco de Ibarra, and as a result there are more Durangos in America named after the Basque original one, not least of which is a state in Mexico called Durango, the principal city of which is called Durango. The town has the unfortunate claim of being the first place to be blitzed by Hitler's German Air force, at the request of General Francisco Franco. Just like the Gernika bombing that followed, it was a busy shopping day - St. Maria, the central church (now a basilica) with a covered market, was the target. About 500 people were killed in Durango but it was not as famous as the following bombing of Gernika a few days later, to which Pablo Picasso paid tribute in his painting for the Paris Exhibition.1 There is less heavy industry in the town than ten or twenty years ago as it's being replaced by high density housing projects and shopping facilities. What was once a thriving industrial town, full of life and late night entertainment, is rapidly turning into an insipid dormitory town for workers from Bilbao and other out lying areas. A crack down by the local administration, driven by a minority of very vocal and influential new comers has left the town lifeless, the happy go lucky atmosphere generated by a multitude of shift workers, who lived locally and worked locally, has been more or less destroyed by NIMBY commuters who want the town silent by 11pm. Along with the loss of heavy industry, the town has had the majority of its late night bars closed, or even demolished for further residential developments. This loss of industry within the town boundaries has yet to make any difference to Durango suffering from some of the worst air pollution in the region. Tabira, to the south of the town is worst affected, as is the neighbouring village in the conurbation Iruetta, this is due to smelting works still in operation in both places. One notable out of town disgrace is a paper mill called Smurfit, a few kilometres to the west of Durango. The pungent aroma from this plant is used by the locals to forecast the weather. If one can smell Smurfit, it will rain. To a visitor the smell can on occasion be so intense as to bring on a panic attack, dizziness and the desire to vomit. Local people barely notice it, and it is said humorously that if Smurfit closed, all the old people would complain that the town smells funny, and probably move else where. Sadly the high number of birth defects and mutations of one sort or another don't make it a laughing matter, also women significantly out number men in Durango, pollution is often sited by locals as the reason for this.
Communications and Transport
Durango is the home of Euskal Telebista (http://www.eitb.com/english/). This public television company broadcasts in Euskera (Basque) and Spanish. It also has a global presence with satellite channel beamed across the world. ETB will soon be moving to a new HQ in Bilbao.
Bus
Every half an hour there is a BizkaiBus bus service to Bilbao. There are two routes, one via the AP-8 motorway which takes about 30 minutes. This bus runs on the hour. The other slower route which offers a wonderful tour of the local countryside and villages, takes about 50 mins. Buses also run to a variety of coastal villages. Also Vitoria, Gernika and Donostia (San Sebastian) are served.
Train
The trains (from EuskoTren company) are narrow gauge and run on a single track. At this time Durango is cut in two by the railway, as level crossings are used, this can cause unexpected delays in traffic. A rail tunnel is being built under the town, that will solve the problem of the level crossings by 2009. Trains also run to Bilbao and it is possible to get to Gernika also with a train change at Amorebieta
External links
- Durango City Hall
- Urkiola Natural Park
- DURANGO in the Bernardo Estornés Lasa - Auñamendi Encyclopedia (Euskomedia Fundazioa) (Spanish)
