The First Ascent of the Face Summary and Analysis

In 1938, two Italian climbers, Bartolo Sandri and Mario Menti, died on the North Face early in the summer. Other climbers were waiting patiently. Harrer finished his final exams at the University of Graz and joined Fritz Kasparek at the base, telling only his future mother-in-law his plans. Fraissl and Brankowski were also at the mountain. The climbers studied the mountain, climbing the northeast side to the Mittellegi Ridge. Harrer and Kasparek placed a pack of equipment on the Face and watched the weather and the condition of the snow and ice. On July 21, they began their climb, followed by Fraissl and Brankowski. They discovered Heckmair and Vörg already on the mountain.

Heckmair and Vörg had evaded notice by staying at a hotel instead of in a tent, and had...