Maurice Herzog

The author of the book and the leader of the French Alpine Club's expedition to explore the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna region of Nepal and climb one of the peaks if it proves possible. Herzog, like his fellow climbers, is a veteran of World War II and takes a military approach to his task. Each of the climbers swears an oath to follow his direction while on the expedition.

Herzog takes his duty seriously, and often places himself at the front of dangerous situations. He also shows an independence and stubbornness that sometimes endangers his life, as when he sends the rest of his party ahead on their return from Manangbhot and nearly dies of cold and hunger when he cannot make it back to camp quickly enough by himself. He solicits the opinion and advice of his fellow climbers, but considers his own decisions to be final...