Clothing, Traditional—Tibet | Research & Encyclopedia Articles

Tibetan costume reflects the environment and nomadic lifestyle of many of Tibet's people. A long history of intermarriage between Chinese and Tibetan nobility, resulting in exchanges of material culture, has also influenced Tibetan dress. Fabrics used for Tibetan clothing include hemp, Chinese cottons and silks, rayon, indigenous animal furs, felted fabric derived from the hair of the yak, and pulu, a traditional woolen cloth. Chinese silks are believed to have been brought to Tibet when a Chinese princess married a Tibetan noble during the Tang dynasty (618–907). Pulu became a popular tribute item given to China. Other Chinese costume characteristics, such as color symbolism and the right-over-left closure method, are also reflected in Tibetan costume. Tibetan and Mongolian traditional costumes also share characteristics; in particular, lamas of both countries share similar costumes, among them the zi xia (crested helmets). Although basic garments worn throughout central and northern Asia may be similar, distinctions exist not only between countries, but also between regions and tribes within each nation.

Tibetan garments are worn layered, and many basic pieces are worn by men and women alike. Most garments close to the right and are fastened with a variety of closures. The anju is a full-length, long-sleeved garment made of silk, cotton, or rayon, worn close to the body. Over the anju is worn the anduh, a full-length, sleeveless garment usually made of black pulu and lined with blue fabric. Men and women also wear leggings tied to a waist girdle. The basic Tibetan outer garment is the giuba, a long-sleeved, round-collared, loose-fitting robe of pulu; it closes to the right and is tied at the waist with a sash or belt. The giuba may be as long as seven feet, with the upper part bloused over the waist tie to adjust the length to knee level for men and ankle level for women and priests. Waist ties— leather belts or silk or cotton sashes—keep the giuba in place and allow the wearer to pull out his or her arms for cooling. This garment can also be used as a blanket or sleeping bag.

Other robes include the giuiu, a sleeveless, broad-shouldered robe made of black pulu or animal skins, and the giubjialo, a lined pulu robe with a floral design on the collar. The cha is a fur-lined robe worn by men and is made either from jacquard silk fabric (for special occasions) or plain-colored leather (for everyday wear). Waist-length jackets, both sleeved and sleeveless, may also be worn over the guiba. Square-toed sunpa (boots) are a popular type of footwear. Sunpa have soles of thick yak hide and fabric foot and leg sections. They are secured with cloth ties and often have embroidery at the ankle area.

Headwear is also an important part of Tibetan costume, and the shape and quality of the hat indicate rank, status, and regional and tribal affiliation. The xi-amou

jiasi (golden flower) hat is worn in winter by men, women, and children. The xianmou jiasi has a tall crown of fabric, felt, or leather, four fur flaps, and is often trimmed with gold rickrack imported from India or China.

Costume indicates a woman's marriage status. Married women wear the bangdian, an apron-like garment made from three widths of hand-woven, horizontally striped fabric in shades of red. Different hairstyles and hair ornaments are also important marital indicators and vary by region and tribe. A basic married woman's hairstyle is a Y-shaped style, or peyrak, with the hair curving into two ram-shaped horns that encircle the head. Women's hair is also embellished with many hair ornaments of precious metals and materials.

Accessories are important to Tibetan costume, serving decorative and practical purposes. Silver belt buckles and belts are common for both sexes. Many accessories hang from the waist ties. Males typically hang Buddhist boxes, cartridge clips and belts, and bagu (metal wallets) from their waist ties or belts. Women often hang needle cases from their waist ties. Men and women wear jewelry such as earrings, bracelets, and necklaces; men may wear only one large dangling earring. Coral, jade, silver, and gold are highly prized jewelry materials. Women wear more jewelry than men; part of the wealth of the family is kept in women's jewelry. One of the most important accessories worn by women is the kou, a square metal box with a diamond shape on it. The kou is worn around the neck on a chain so that it rests on the woman's chest and contains a Buddhist religious artifact.

The kha-btags or kata is an important Tibetan textile material artifact. It is a white scarf symbolizing purity that is offered as a gift when greeting people. The kha-btags are also used as offerings when visiting shrines and during other rituals such as wedding and funeral rites. This tradition is believed to have evolved from an ancient custom of clothing statues of deities.

Laura Klosterman Kidd

An Hsu. (1988) Tsang tsu fu shih i shu (The Art of Tibetan Costume and Ornaments). Tianjin, China: Nan kai ta hsueh ch'u pan she.

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