Ao Dai

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The ao dai (pronounced "ow zai" in the north and "ow yai" in the south and literally meaning "long dress") is the traditional dress of the Vietnamese people. The ao dai is a contoured, full-length dress worn over black or white loose-fitting trousers that brush the floor. The dress's body-hugging top splits into a front and back panel from above the waist and runs to just below the knee. The ao dai was originally designed for both genders, but the dress is more common today among women. Early versions of the ao dai date back to 1744, when Lord Vu Vong of the Nguyen dynasty (1802–1955) decreed that both women and men should wear an ensemble of a short gown that buttoned down the front and loose-fitting trousers. It was not until 1932 that the modern-style ao dai appeared. Vietnamese designer Cat Tuong fitted the bodice to the curves of the body, moved the buttons from the front position to closer along the shoulder and side seam, and lengthened the top so that it reached the floor. During the 1950s, two tailors in Saigon, Tran Kim and Dung, started producing the dress with raglan sleeves that created a diagonal seam running from the collar to the underarm. The color of the top is traditionally indicative of the wearer's age and status in society. Young girls and students wear white, older but unmarried women wear soft pastels, married women wear rich, strong colors, and red is worn at weddings.

Traditionally the ao dai is custom made, accounting for the flattering fit that highlights the figure of the wearer, but today the popularity of the dress outside of Vietnam has dictated that it be mass produced to make it more available and affordable.

Lieu, N. T. (2000) "Remembering 'the Nation' through Pageantry: Femininity and the Politics of Vietnamese Womanhood in the Ha Hau Ao Dai Contest." Frontiers 21: 127–151.

"Style-Designer Minh Hanh Brings the Ao Dai, Vietnam's Traditional Costume, Back into Fashion." (2001) People Weekly (1 May): 66–72.