Enormously popular among young African American and Mexican American (Chicano) men in the 1940s, the zoot suit was more than a piece of clothing. Designed sleek enough to be stylish and loose enough for dancing (see entry under 1900s— The Way We Lived in volume 1), the zoot suit also represented a culture that belonged to people of color in the United States.

It reflected an open pride in nonwhite ethnic roots that was new in American society. Many whites felt threatened by displays of pride and racial identity among people of color. Some even reacted violently to the sight of young men wearing the distinctive zoot suit.

Some say the zoot suit was designed in 1941 by Chicago tailor and band leader Harold C. "Zoot Suit" Fox (1910–1996). Inspired by the styles he saw on...