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George Leigh Mallory, one of the best British mountain climbers of his day, was in the first party ever to attempt to scale Mount Everest in 1921. He died during a subsequent attempt in 1924. Messner recounts the story of Mallory's several attempts to climb Everest and describes Mallory as an early hero of his, especially because Mallory was among the first to oppose the use of artificial oxygen by climbers. In 1921, Mallory and two others forged through violent weather on Everest to 7,000 meters, and saw a route to the top before they descended.