The Orange County Register, November 20th, 2003
Real roast turkey looks less than picture perfect, especially after sitting at room temperature while the gravy simmers and the potatoes are mashed. As the bird cools slightly, the skin shrivels. It looses its just-out-of-the-oven beauty.
Yet for years, magazines and cookbooks have slipped us a visual okey-doke. Photographers and stylists presented us with images of plump, flawless turkeys. But they were barely cooked, coated with everything from Kitchen Bouquet to soy sauce concoctions, then covered with last-minute sprays of oil, even lacquer. Dolled up for the camera, that fantasy fowl was encircled with beds of raw cranberries and grape leaves, bundles of vegetables, even pomegranate seeds.
So, at home, your turkey may not look like a Norman Rockwell illustration. At my house, Mr. Gobble is carved in the kitchen, so it really doesn't matter how the exterior looks. Besides, there are easy, much more practical ways to add glamour to your Thanksgiving feast.
First, next to the pile of platters and bowls that you've set out to display each finished dish, place a water-filled vase or pitcher. Jam it with assorted fresh herbs, such as Italian parsley, rosemary, chives, thyme, plus lots and lots of sage. Next to it, place a bowl of halved orange slices and tiny tomatoes (an assortment of red, yellow and orange marble-size tomatoes is best).
Ask a willing friend or relative to be the in-house stylist, assigned the duty of garnishing each bowl and platter.
Second, make several dishes in advance.
Here are four delectable but easy dishes that can be whipped up ahead of time. And, don't be shy; divvy up the work by asking guests to make some of them:
Pumpkin Upside-Down Cake
Yield: 8-10 servings
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
2 cups fresh cranberries
1 cup coarsely chopped pecans, toasted; see cook's notes
2 large eggs
1 cup pumpkin purée
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups sweetened whipped cream
Cook's notes: To toast pecans, place in single layer on baking sheet and bake about 4-5 minutes or until toasted; watch carefully because nuts burn easily.
Procedure:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line bottom of 9-inch-square pan with parchment paper.
2. Melt butter in small saucepan over medium heat. Add brown sugar and whisk until smooth. Pour into bottom of prepared pan.
3. In medium bowl, combine cranberries and pecans. Place them in pan over brown sugar mixture.
4. In large bowl, whisk together eggs, pumpkin purée and oil. In another bowl, sift flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon and salt. Stir flour mixture into pumpkin mixture. Carefully spread batter over cranberry mixture.
5. Bake in middle of preheated oven until skewer inserted in center comes out clean, 35-40 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes on wire rack. Place large plate or platter on top of cake. Invert plate and pan, then remove pan. Carefully peel off parchment paper. Cool completely before serving. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.
Fast glamour: If desired, serve on footed cake plate. Cookware shops such as Sur La Table sell autumn leaves made out of paper. Tuck them under the edges of this cake so that most of the leaf is exposed. Beautiful.
Advance preparation: Cake can be prepared 1-2 days ahead; store at room temperature.
Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 390 (39 percent from fat); fat 17 g; protein 7 g; carbohydrates 44 g; no fiber; cholesterol 70 mg; sodium 448 mg; calcium 108 mg.
Source: ``A Passion for Desserts'' by Emily Luchetti (Chronicle, $35)
Puréed Carrot Soup
With Ginger and Lime
Yield: 8 (1-cup) servings
4 leeks, white portion only
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds carrots, trimmed, peeled, cut in 2-inch pieces
1/4 cup Arborio rice
6 cups chicken broth, plus more if needed
1 tablespoon minced crystallized ginger; see cook's notes
Salt and ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
For garnish: 2 tablespoons sour cream or crème fraîche
For garnish: 2 tablespoons lime zest
For garnish: 1 tablespoon minced crystallized ginger
Cook's notes: Crystallized ginger, sometimes labeled candied ginger, has been cooked in sugar syrup and rolled in coarse sugar. It's sold in some supermarkets, often in the Asian specialty section. It's also sold at Trader Joe's.
Procedure:
1. Slice leeks lengthwise; rinse with cold water. Place flat side of leek on cutting board. Cut into thin slices.
2. In large pot or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add leeks and cook until softened, about 2 minutes (do not brown). Add carrots, rice and broth. Bring to boil on high heat. Reduce heat and simmer 40 minutes. Add ginger. Cook 10 minutes.
3. Purée mixture in batches in food processor fitted with metal blade. Return to pot and season with salt and pepper. Stir in lime juice. If soup is too thick, add more broth until desired consistency is reached. Heat until simmering.
4. Ladle into bowls or cups and add a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of lime zest and crystallized ginger.
Advance preparation: Cool and store airtight in refrigerator up to 3 days ahead. Reheat on medium or heat in slow-cooker. Taste before serving; adjust seasoning if needed.
Nutritional information (per 1 cup): Calories 239 (26 percent from fat); fat 7 g; protein 12.6 g; carbohydrates 32.2 g; fiber 1.2 g; cholesterol 18 mg; sodium 1,101 mg; calcium 73 mg.
Source: ``Thanksgiving Dinner'' by Anthony Dias Blue and Kathryn K. Blue (Harper Collins, out of print)
Wild Rice, Apple and Dried Cranberry Dressing
Yield: 8-10 servings
4 cups water
1 cup wild rice
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided use
1/2 pound crusty white bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 6 cups)
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter or reserved fat from turkey, divided use
2 cups diced onion
2 cups diced celery
2 cups diced green apple, such as Granny Smith
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh marjoram OR 1/2 teaspoon dried, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup dried cranberries
1 cup turkey broth OR chicken broth
Procedure:
1. Bring water to boil in heavy 2-quart saucepan. Add rice and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Reduce heat to low and cook, uncovered until tender and most grains are split open, 1 to 1 1/4 hours (not all liquid will be absorbed). Drain well in colander and spread out in baking pan to cool completely.
2. Place oven rack in upper third of oven; preheat to 350 degrees.
3. Spread bread cubes in shallow baking pan and bake in upper third of oven until dry, about 20 minutes.
4. Melt 1 stick butter in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add onion and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add apple and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender-crisp, about 5 minutes. Stir in marjoram, pepper and remaining teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Transfer to large bowl; toss with rice, bread cubes and cranberries.
5. Increase oven to 450 degrees. Grease shallow 3-quart baking dish (9-by-13-inch will work) with butter. Place stuffing mixture in prepared pan. Drizzle with turkey or chicken broth and melted butter or turkey fat. Bake, tightly covered with aluminum foil, in upper third of oven until heated through, about 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake until top is browned, 10-15 minutes more.
Fast glamour: Garnish with fresh herbs and orange slices.
Advance preparation: Wild rice can be cooked 2 days ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled, covered. To save time, instead of drying bread cubes in oven, they can be spread in shallow baking pan and dried, uncovered, at room temperature, 1 day. Dressing can be assembled (without drizzling with broth and melted butter) but not baked, 1 day ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.
Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 182 (39 percent from fat); fat 8.8 g; protein 4 g; carbohydrates 22 g; fiber 0.5 g; cholesterol 10 mg; sodium 400 mg; calcium 33 mg.
Source: Gourmet magazine, November 2003
Smoked Salmon Appetizer Spread
Yield: 6-8 servings (about 1 1/4 cups)
1 (5-ounce) container garlic-and-herb flavored cheese spread, such as Boursin
4 ounces sliced smoked salmon
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill OR chives
For serving: Pita triangles, crackers or toasted slices of baguette
Procedure:
1. Place cheese spread, smoked salmon and dill in food processor fitted with metal blade. Pulse 5 or 6 times or until mixture is well-combined. Spoon into serving bowl or onto serving plate, surround with pita triangles, crackers or toasted slices of baguette.
Fast glamour: Garnish spread with Italian parsley and a smoked salmon ``rose'': Twist a long piece of thinly sliced smoked salmon into a spiral. Turn upside-down and pull layers apart slightly at top so they look like petals. Place on top of spread and surround with sprigs of fresh Italian parsley.
Advance preparation: Can be prepared a day ahead, covered and refrigerated. If you'd like to serve it warm, place in microwave-safe container and heat about 20 seconds.
Nutritional information (per tablespoon): Calories 153 (52 percent from fat); fat 8.9 g; protein 17.1 g; carbohydrates 3.2 g; no fiber; cholesterol 81 g; sodium 650 mg; calcium 30 mg.
Source: ``The Dinner Doctor'' by Anne Byrn (Workman, $14.95)
``Grownup''
Cranberry-Orange Relish
Yield: About 3 cups
1 (12-ounce) bag fresh cranberries
1 large orange or tangelo, rinsed, cut into 12 chunks including peel, seeded
3/4 cup sugar, or to taste
Optional: 1 tablespoon orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier
Procedure:
1. In bowl of food processor fitted with metal blade, combine cranberries and orange chunks; pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to nonreactive bowl, such as glass or ceramic. Add sugar and stir to dissolve. Add liqueur, if using, and stir to combine.
2. Cover and refrigerate, stirring once or twice, until chilled, about 2 hours.
Fast glamour: Serve in small crystal bowl garnished with fresh mint or fresh Italian parsley and orange slice or wedge.
Advance preparation: Can be prepared 1 day ahead and refrigerated, airtight.
Nutritional information (per 1/4 cup): Calories 246 (less than 1 percent from fat); fat 0.1 g; protein 0.4 g; carbohydrates 62 g; fiber 1.5 g; no cholesterol; sodium 44 mg; calcium 15 mg.
Source: ``Mary Engelbreit's 'Tis the Season Holiday Cookbook'' (Andrews McMeel, $24.95)
Help! Tips and experts await
No need for ruffled feathers: Help is just a phone call or mouse click away.
The Butterball Turkey Talk-Line is staffed by close to 50 seasoned home economists and turkey experts during November and December. Automated assistance is available after hours and all year long, but to speak to an expert (in English or Spanish), call (800)-BUTTERBALL -- (800) 288-8372.
U.S. Department of Agriculture Meat and Poultry Hotline, (800) 535-4555: Year-round personal assistance with food-safety questions, 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Monday-Friday.
www.eatturkey.com: The National Turkey Federation offers 30 virtual cooking demonstrations and loads of turkey tips.
This pumpkin cake is just as delicious to eat as it is beautiful to look at. It can be prepared two days ahead. Author Emily Luchetti says to store it at room temperature with a ``Don't Eat!'' note on it.
Luchetti is a pastry chef, but she doesn't make the desserts on Thanksgiving. Her sister-in-law makes all the sweets. ``It's a holiday,'' Luchetti says. ``The idea is to have fun. I make the turkey, gravy, stuffing and mashed potatoes -- nothing that needs to be measured!''
As a first course, served in an oh-so-small cup, soup gets everyone to the table at the same time for quiet time before the feeding frenzy begins. Or, have it heated in the slow-cooker on the counter, for folks to ``snack'' on as a light lunch in the hours before dinner.
This stuffing dish is baked separately from the turkey. The nutty flavor of wild rice pairs nicely with the tart apples and dried cranberries.
Cookbook author Anne Byrn says her tangy three-ingredient version of Smoked Salmon Appetizer Spread couldn't be easier. ``I have made plenty of complicated smoked salmon pâtés in my day, and now I ask myself, why?''
