The Orange County Register, August 6th, 2006
The sugar cube flew through the warm air, tumbling corner over corner in a perfect arc before passing just over the rim of my glass, clattering around twice and coming to a dead stop at the bottom.
"I guess that means another," the bartender said.
I had bet him he couldn't drop a cube into my glass from about six feet away.
He aced the test, and the payoff was that I would keep my barstool at the Buena Vista Cafe warm for another cream topped concoction of whiskey and java.
Not that I needed a lot of encouragement. The Buena Vista is one of the great bars in a great bar town. On a foggy afternoon or breezy cold night, there's many a warm, friendly place to imbide. Try signature local drinks like Anchor Steam Beer on tap, a tropical Fog Cutter, Irish coffee or a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon from nearby Napa Valley.
San Francisco has old bars, trendy bars, gay bars, meat-market bars, bayfront bars, and basement bars. As a middle-aged married male, my taste in drinking establishments might not match up with yours. I haven't been to trendy places like the Jade Bar, Olive or Bambuddha Lounge or even some classics like Top of the Mark. But after a couple of rounds at any of the spots on my list, you won't worry about much of anything anymore (unless you're one of those surly drinkers).
Pied Piper Bar: The plushest drinking spot on my list, the bar at the Palace Hotel on Market Street makes expensive but strong cocktails. Have a couple of stiff Old Fashioneds beneath the Maxfield Parrish mural "The Pied Piper of Hamelin." (2 New Montgomery St. 415-512-1111)
The House of Shields: In 1986, it became the last bar in the city to install stools to replace the traditional brass rail where drinkers would have to stand no matter how wobbly they became. The sometimes quiet saloon is a good place to kill a couple of hours on a rainy afternoon. It's right across the street from the Palace, so split time with the Pied Piper (the check will be noticeably smaller at the House of Shields). (39 New Montgomery St., 415-975-8651)
Washington Square Bar & Grill: This is an old journalists bar, so as a graying journalist, I like the place a lot. Martinis are my choice here. It's one of those bars whose walls are decorated with the photos and words of illustrious locals you might not recognize. The bar was one of the favorites of the late, legendary Herb Caen, the San Francisco Chronicle columnist read by all, high and low, for decades. Just off Columbus Avenue, the bar is a good spot for a cold one on the long walk from North Beach to Fisherman's Wharf. (1707 Powell St., 415-982-8123)
Lefty O'Doul's: A few feet from Union Square, Lefty's was once owned by the great local ballplayer. O'Doul played for the Giants when they were still in New York and future Yankee great Joe DiMaggio was a youngster working down at Fisherman's Wharf. Lefty died in 1969, but he lives on at his namesake hot-plate restaurant and bar. I go in for a mug of local Anchor Steam beer and a corned beef sandwich, then a stroll around to look at all the baseball memorabilia. It's a rare kid-friendly bar-restaurant. It's still a lot of fun, but it must have been a great place in its heyday. (333 Geary St., 415-982-8900)
Saloon: This semi-scruffy North Beach blues bar opened in 1861, the first year of the Civil War. Originally known as Wagner's Beer Hall, Saloon survived not only Barbary Coast ruffians and the 1906 earthquake, but successive waves of immigrants, beatniks, hippies and yuppies who have inhabited its neighborhood. It's a fun place for a quick afternoon drink or an evening of guitar-driven music. You'll be drinking where more San Franciscans have raised a glass, from rye to microbrew beer, than any other spot in the city. (1232 Grant Ave. 415-989-7666)
Café Zoetrope: Along with movies ("The Godfather," "Apocalypse Now"), film-maker and San Francisco native Francis Ford Coppola has delved into winemaking up in Napa Valley. This North Beach cafe is the hometown outpost to try his robust red wines. Many locals prefer the CAV Wine Bar on Market Street. But for out-of-towners, Coppola's place is a more interesting choice. The Italian food is pretty good too. Staff can match up your meal with the right choice of vino. (916 Kearny St., 415-291-1700)
Buena Vista Cafe: You'd expect a bar on the corner where the cable cars turn around, sandwiched between Fisherman's Wharf and Ghirardelli Square, to be a tourist trap. While the Buena Vista gets more than its share of out-of-towners, the legendary Irish coffees keep locals coming back too. The story goes that a San Francisco newspaperman Stanton Delaplane tried the drink at the airport in Shannon, Ireland, in the early 1950s. He sang its praises in his column upon returning home. The Buena Vista latched onto the double buzz of alcohol and caffeine and hasn't let go since. They serve an average of 2,000 a day. (2765 Hyde St., 415-474-5044)
Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar: Old friends sometimes have their wild side. Tucked in the rear of the stately Fairmont Hotel is one of the few survivors of the classic age of tiki chic. Soak up your tropical tipple with some of the happy hour "Pacific Rim" munchies like pot stickers and chow mein. (950 Mason St., 415-772-5000)
Bix: Another of Herb Caen's favorite hangouts (he really got around). Bix is a dark little restaurant in an old building that, survived the 1906 earthquake. Champagne is on ice, but my favorite is a vodka martini. They've also got a long list of nuevo-style martinis for the less traditional minded. (56 Gold St., 415-433-6300)
*****
Warner can be reached at 714-796-7771 or gettingaway@ocregister.com.
