When the successful American sportswear designer Perry Ellis died in 1986, the fashion industry refused to comment on the cause of his death, which, in more intimate circles, was attributed to acquired immunodeficiency syndrome (AIDS). Despite the growing number of members of the " industry lost to AIDS, the fashion community was not only tight-lipped but reluctant to provide money to benefit the cause — unlike the interior design business, also heavily gay, which raised $400,000 between 1984 and 1986.' The industry's reluctance was rooted in fear of hurting business; as one commentator said, "Many people are making clothes for real macho types out there and the last thing they want is to be associated with homosexuals and AIDS by the pipe fitter in Chicago." In the 1980s designers' public image was important, as they helped to sell the clothes, and "if it's known...