For most men not in uniform during the war years the-dominant look was short hair, shoulder-padded jackets that narrowed at the waist, and pants that tapered with little if any cuffing. But a small group of American men adopted an appearance that expressed dissension against the idea of clean-cut, patriotic manhood. Excluded by age, ethnic background, race, or poverty from mainstream society, some young Mexican Americans and some young African American men wore zoot suits. In defiance of the clothing restrictions, the zoot suit consisted of a oversized jacket with shoulder pads and exaggerated lapels which fell to knee level. The pants were baggy at the knee and narrowed at the ankle. Zoot-suiters finished off the look with a pocket watch on a long chain and a large, floppy hat. Women put together their own version, consisting of a long jacket; a short...