If John Held Jr.'s caricatures of flappers and sheiks provided vivid portraits of America's "flaming youth" during the 1920s, illustrator J. C. Leyendecker's "Arrow Collar Man" conveyed a distinctly different image. Appearing in advertisements for the Cluett, Peabody product from 1905 to 1930, the "Arrow Collar Man" was clearly well-to-do, well-bred, educated, sophisticated, aloof, and, of course, handsome. He became an ideal for young people of both sexes, as this passage from F. Scott Fitzgerald's "The Last of the Belles" (1929) suggests: ". . . she told me about her brother who had died in his senior year at Yale. She showed me his picture — it was a handsome, earnest face with a Leyendecker forelock— and told me that when she met someone who measured up to him she'd marry."

Sources F Scott Fitzgerald, "The Last of the Belles," in The Short Stories of F Scott Fitzgerald , edited...