In France, country cooking is now so romanticized that even classically trained chefs are serving cuisine du terroir, regional food of earthy simplicity. Until a decade ago, a peasant-style pig's foot would never have been welcome on a chic restaurant menu. Neither would ordinary game, like rabbit. But both of these ingredients have crossed the barrier, and a whimsical interpretation is often the chef's only nod to modern times. The rules used to be clearer: Anything coarse and fatty belonged to the masses. Rich, creamy dishes that required time and expertise went onto royal tables. The peasan...
