The Independent - London, September 17th, 1998
THOUGH IT contains barely a dozen recipes that you would want to attempt, this book is gastronomic writing of the highest order, deserving a place alongside Elizabeth David and M F K Fisher. The pieces gathered here originally appeared in American Vogue. It is strange to think that Steingarten's heroic culinary feats - such as scoffing choucroute garnie a l'Alsacienne twice a day for five days while researching sauerkraut, or importing rendered horse fat from Vienna to New York in an attempt to achieve the perfect frite - first appeared in a journal which is otherwise a celebration of anorexia...
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