The Spectator, February 23rd, 2002
Mull, a baronial castle near Stirling, an 18th-century house overlooking the Cuillins on Skye, an island stronghold in Orkney, and, most unusual of the lot, a 19th-century folly shaped like a pineapple, refurbished by the Landmark Trust.
Most of these places seem to be run by young couples whose commitment to good food and high standards is their only passport to survival. Seafood, which was once unheard of on Scottish menus, is now as common as fruits de mer on the Brittany coast. There is a strong emphasis on local beef, lamb and venison. The restaurant has become a focal point of small tow...
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