The Washington Post, September 11th, 2002
"No Number Fifty-One?" asked the waiter. He stopped scribbling and glanced at us, eyebrows raised. In close to three years of ordering weekly takeout from Nam-Viet Pho-79, our neighborhood Vietnamese restaurant, never before -- nor since -- have we bypassed Number Fifty-One. Each time, we rush home, unlatch the lid of the plain Styrofoam container -- and behold! Beneath a sprinkling of finely chopped peanuts, paper-thin fried shallots and an occasional speck of cilantro lies a tangle of glistening rice noodles, slicked with oil, sugar and salt, suffused with a slight sweetness and intertwined ...
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