The Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, December 27th, 1998
The sun was just pulling free of the horizon, and the wide expanse of the Chao Phraya River had turned the color of pewter, when Adisak Boonsark, captain of the Mekhala, leaned over the railing. He rearranged the garlands of jasmine flowers above the eyes painted on the prow of the converted rice barge and grumbled about fickle river spirits.
Like many boatmen who make their living on Thailand's greatest waterway, Boonsark was superstitious.
The boat had eyes so that the spirits of the teak trees cut for her planks 50 years ago could find safe passage. Once a year, Boonsark also makes an off...
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