The Independent - London, November 20th, 1996
Africans. Anarchists. The Irish of Italy. Neapolitans and Naples are clearly hard to categorise, and of all the major European cities it is true that you will either love it or hate it. I love it, especially in December or January when the temperature rarely drops below 50F, the light is ethereal and the ravishing Bay of Naples refuses to turn wintry grey.
Do, however, remember the old maxim "see Naples and die": once you have been exposed to such beauty (the city's location is almost unrivalled), you will swoon, satiated, into the welcoming embrace of death. Equally, it may mean keeping your...
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