The Washington Post, August 22nd, 2001
SAIGNON, France Charles de Gaulle once asked how he could be expected to govern a country with so many cheeses. Today, France produces more than 500 different kinds of cheese. And though there are joys to be found with cheese made from cow's milk and sheep's milk in the village markets of Provence, in the area where I have a home, it's goat cheese that joins bread and wine in the "holy trinity" of the table. That's probably because the goat -- the "poor man's cow" -- doesn't mind the extremes of the Provencal terrain and weather, happy to munch away at greens growing among the rocks, while the...
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