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A Backhanded Farewell

About 2 pages (455 words)

The Washington Post, October 6th, 1999

It must have been a terrible challenge for Stephen Hunter, a self- admitted "media elitist" from Washington, to take on and trash the sad closing after 72 years in business of Haussner's Restaurant in Baltimore ["Baltimore's Entree to a Bygone World," Style, Sept. 22]. Is the beloved Haussner's really "Yahooland," inhabited by boorish, crass and stupid brutes (Webster's)? If Mr. Hunter had looked carefully about him he would have seen his own parents, grandparents, uncles and aunts. Sure, it was a place of fabricated "splendor," and the heavy food may have been overrated, but it was pure Ballm...

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