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Sir Richard Francis Burton

(Garachico, wealthy town; wasteful of thy wealth, may an ill rock fall upon thy head!)

both sexes were in their ‘braws.’  The men wore clean blanket-mantles, the women coloured corsets laced in front, gowns of black serge or cotton, dark blue shawls hardly reaching to their waist, and the usual white kerchief, the Arab kufiyah, under the broad-brimmed straw or felt hat, whose crown was decorated with the broadest and gayest ribbons.  But even this unpicturesque coiffure, almost worthy of Sierra Leone, failed to conceal the nobility of face and figure, the well-turned limbs, the fine hands and feet, and the meneo, or swimming walk, of this Guanchinesque race, which everywhere forced itself upon the sight.  The proverb says—­

  De Tenerife los hombres;
  Las mugeres de Canaria.

It is curious to compare the realistic accounts of the nineteenth century with those of the vulcanio two centuries ago.  Ogilby (1670) tells us that the Moors called it El-Bard (Cold), and we the ’Pike of Teneriff, thought not to have its equal in the world for height, because it spires with its top so high into the clouds that in clear weather it may be seen sixty Dutch miles off at sea.’  His illustration of the ‘Piek-Bergh op het Eilant Teneriffe’ shows an almost perpendicular tower of natural masonry rising from a low sow-back whose end is the ‘Punt Tenago’ (Anaga Point).  The ’considerable merchants and persons of credit,’ whose ascent furnished material for the Royal Society, set out from Orotava.  ’In the ascent of one mile some of our Company grew very faint and sick, disorder’d by Fluxes, Vomitings, and Aguish Distempers; our Horses’ Hair standing upright like Bristles.’  Higher up ’their Strong waters had lost their Virtue, and were almost insipid, while their Wine was more spirituous and brisk than before.’  In those days also iron and copper, silver and gold, were found in the calcined rocks of the Katakaumenon.  It is strange to note how much more was seen by ancient travellers than by us moderns.

CHAPTER VII.

THE SPANISH ACCOUNT OF THE REPULSE OF NELSON FROM SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE.

[Footnote:  From the Relacion circumstanciada de la Defensa que hizo la Plaza de Santa Cruz, by M. Monteverde.  Published in Madrid, 1798.]

The following pages afford a circumstantial and, I believe, a fairly true account of an incident much glossed over by our naval historians.  The subject is peculiarly interesting.  At Santa Cruz, as at Fontenoy, the Irish, whom harsh measures at home drove for protection to more friendly lands, took ample share in the fighting which defeated England’s greatest sailor.  Again, the short-sighted policy which sent to the Crimea 20,000 British soldiers to play second instrument in concert with 40,000 Frenchmen, thus lowering us in the eyes of Europe, made Nelson oppose his 960 hands to more than eight times their number.  The day may come when the attack shall be repeated.  Now that steam has rendered fleets independent of south-west winds, it is to be hoped the assailant will prefer day to night, so that his divisions can communicate; that he will not land in the ‘raging surf’ of the ebb-tide, and that he will attack the almost defenceless south instead of the well-fortified north of the city.

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To the Gold Coast for Gold from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.

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