The wide Calle Mayor brings you in a moment out of
these mouldy shadows and into the broad light of nowadays
which shines in the Puerta del Sol. Here, under
the walls of the Ministry of the Interior, the quick,
restless heart of Madrid beats with the new life it
has lately earned. The flags of the pavement
have been often stained with blood, but of blood shed
in combat, in the assertion of individual freedom.
Although the government holds that fortress-palace
with a grasp of iron, it can exercise no control over
the free speech that asserts itself on the very sidewalk
of the Principal. At every step you see news-stands
filled with the sharp critical journalism of Spain,—often
ignorant and unjust, but generally courteous in expression
and independent in thought. Every day at noon
the northern mails bring hither the word of all Europe
to the awaking Spanish mind, and within that massive
building the converging lines of the telegraph are
whispering every hour their persuasive lessons of
the world’s essential unity.
The movement of life and growth is bearing the population
gradually away from that dark mediaeval Madrid of
the Catholic kings through the Puerta del Sol to the
airy heights beyond, and the new, fresh quarter built
by the philosopher Bourbon Charles III. is becoming
the most important part of the city. I think
we may be permitted to hope that the long reign of
savage faith and repression is broken at last, and
that this abused and suffering people is about to
enter into its rightful inheritance of modern freedom
and progress.
SPANISH LIVING AND DYING
Nowhere is the sentiment of home stronger than in
Spain. Strangers, whose ideas of the Spanish
character have been gained from romance and comedy,
are apt to note with some surprise the strength and
prevalence of the domestic affections. But a
moment’s reflection shows us that nothing is
more natural. It is the result of all their history.
The old Celtic population had scarcely any religion
but that of the family. The Goths brought in
the pure Teutonic regard for woman and marriage.
The Moors were distinguished by the patriarchal structure
of their society. The Spaniards have thus learned
the lesson of home in the school of history and tradition.
The intense feeling of individuality, which so strongly
marks the Spanish character, and which in the political
world is so fatal an element of strife and obstruction,
favors this peculiar domesticity. The Castilian
is submissive to his king and his priest, haughty
and inflexible with his equals. But his own house
is a refuge from the contests of out of doors.
The reflex of absolute authority is here observed,
it is true. The Spanish father is absolute king
and lord by his own hearthstone, but his sway is so
mild and so readily acquiesced in that it is hardly
felt. The evils of tyranny are rarely seen but
by him who resists it, and the Spanish family seldom
calls for the harsh exercise of parental authority.
Copyrights
Castilian Days from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.