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John Hay

The wide Calle Mayor brings you in a moment out of these mouldy shadows and into the broad light of nowadays which shines in the Puerta del Sol.  Here, under the walls of the Ministry of the Interior, the quick, restless heart of Madrid beats with the new life it has lately earned.  The flags of the pavement have been often stained with blood, but of blood shed in combat, in the assertion of individual freedom.  Although the government holds that fortress-palace with a grasp of iron, it can exercise no control over the free speech that asserts itself on the very sidewalk of the Principal.  At every step you see news-stands filled with the sharp critical journalism of Spain,—­often ignorant and unjust, but generally courteous in expression and independent in thought.  Every day at noon the northern mails bring hither the word of all Europe to the awaking Spanish mind, and within that massive building the converging lines of the telegraph are whispering every hour their persuasive lessons of the world’s essential unity.

The movement of life and growth is bearing the population gradually away from that dark mediaeval Madrid of the Catholic kings through the Puerta del Sol to the airy heights beyond, and the new, fresh quarter built by the philosopher Bourbon Charles III. is becoming the most important part of the city.  I think we may be permitted to hope that the long reign of savage faith and repression is broken at last, and that this abused and suffering people is about to enter into its rightful inheritance of modern freedom and progress.

SPANISH LIVING AND DYING

Nowhere is the sentiment of home stronger than in Spain.  Strangers, whose ideas of the Spanish character have been gained from romance and comedy, are apt to note with some surprise the strength and prevalence of the domestic affections.  But a moment’s reflection shows us that nothing is more natural.  It is the result of all their history.  The old Celtic population had scarcely any religion but that of the family.  The Goths brought in the pure Teutonic regard for woman and marriage.  The Moors were distinguished by the patriarchal structure of their society.  The Spaniards have thus learned the lesson of home in the school of history and tradition.  The intense feeling of individuality, which so strongly marks the Spanish character, and which in the political world is so fatal an element of strife and obstruction, favors this peculiar domesticity.  The Castilian is submissive to his king and his priest, haughty and inflexible with his equals.  But his own house is a refuge from the contests of out of doors.  The reflex of absolute authority is here observed, it is true.  The Spanish father is absolute king and lord by his own hearthstone, but his sway is so mild and so readily acquiesced in that it is hardly felt.  The evils of tyranny are rarely seen but by him who resists it, and the Spanish family seldom calls for the harsh exercise of parental authority.

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Castilian Days from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.

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