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John Muir

partly sheltered from the wind.  Early next morning I set out to trace the ancient glacier to its head.  Passing around the north shore of my camp lake I followed the main stream from one lakelet to another.  The dwarf pines and hemlocks disappeared and the stream was bordered with icicles.  The main lateral moraines that extend from the mouth of the canyon are continued in straggling masses along the walls.  Tracing the streams back to the highest of its little lakes, I noticed a deposit of fine gray mud, something like the mud corn from a grindstone.  This suggested its glacial origin, for the stream that was carrying it issued from a raw-looking moraine that seemed to be in process of formation.  It is from sixty to over a hundred feet high in front, with a slope of about thirty-eight degrees.  Climbing to the top of it, I discovered a very small but well-characterized glacier swooping down from the shadowy cliffs of the mountain to its terminal moraine.  The ice appeared on all the lower portion of the glacier; farther up it was covered with snow.  The uppermost crevasse or “bergeschrund” was from twelve to fourteen feet wide.  The melting snow and ice formed a network of rills that ran gracefully down the surface of the glacier, merrily singing in their shining channels.  After this discovery I made excursions over all the High Sierra and discovered that what at first sight looked like snowfields were in great part glaciers which were completing the sculpture of the summit peaks.

Rising early,—­which will be easy, as your bed will be rather cold and you will not be able to sleep much anyhow,—­after visiting the glacier, climb the Red Mountain and enjoy the magnificent views from the summit.  I counted forty lakes from one standpoint an this mountain, and the views to the westward over the Illilouette Basin, the most superbly forested of all the basins whose waters rain into Yosemite, and those of the Yosemite rocks, especially the Half Dome and the upper part of the north wall, are very fine.  But, of course, far the most imposing view is the vast array of snowy peaks along the axis of the Range.  Then from the top of this peak, light and free and exhilarated with mountain air and mountain beauty, you should run lightly down the northern slope of the mountain, descend the canyon between Red and Gray Mountains, thence northward along the bases of Gray Mountain and Mount Clark and go down into the head of Little Yosemite, and thence down past the Nevada and Vernal Falls to the Valley, a truly glorious two-day trip!

A Three-Day Excursion

The best three-day excursion, as far as I can see, is the same as the first of the two-day trips until you reach Lake Tenaya.  There instead of returning to the Valley, follow the Tioga road around the northwest side of the lake, over to the Tuolumne Meadows and up to the west base of Mount Dana.  Leave the road there and make straight for the highest point on the timber line between Mounts Dana and Gibbs and camp there.

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The Yosemite from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.

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