Tassiding, view of and from — Funereal cypress — Camp at Sunnook —
Hot vapours — Lama’s house — Temples, decorations, altars, idols,
general effect — Chaits — Date of erection — Plundered by Ghorkas
— Cross Ratong — Ascend to Pemiongchi — Relation of river-beds to
strike of rocks — Slopes of ravines — Pemiongchi, view of —
Vegetation — Elevation — Temple, decorations, etc. — Former
capital of Sikkim — History of Sikkim — Nightingales — Campbell
departs — Tchonpong — Edgeworthia — Cross Rungbee and Ratong —
Hoar-frost on plantains — Yoksun — Walnuts — View — Funereal
cypresses — Doobdi — Gigantic cypresses — Temples — Snow-fall —
Sikkim, etc. — Toys.
Tassiding hill is the steep conical termination of
a long spur from a pine-clad shoulder of Kinchinjunga,
called Powhungri: it divides the Great Rungeet
from its main feeder, the Ratong, which rises from
the south face of Kinchin. We crossed the former
by a bridge formed of two bamboo stems, slung by canes
from two parallel arches of stout branches lashed
together.
The ascent for 2,800 feet was up a very steep, dry,
zigzag path, amongst mica slate rocks (strike north-east),
on which grew many tropical plants, especially the
“Tukla,” (Rottlera tinctoria), a
plant which yields a brown dye. The top was a
flat, curving north-west and south-east, covered with
temples, chaits, and mendongs of the most picturesque
forms and in elegant groups, and fringed with brushwood,
wild plantains, small palms, and apple-trees.
Here I saw for the first time the funereal cypress,
of which some very old trees spread their weeping
limbs and pensile branchlets over the buildings.*
[I was not then aware of this tree having been introduced
into England by the intrepid Mr. Fortune from China;
and as I was unable to procure seeds, which are said
not to ripen in Sikkim, it was a great and unexpected
pleasure, on my return home, to find it alive and
flourishing at Kew.] It is not wild in Sikkim, but
imported there and into Bhotan from Tibet: it
does not thrive well above 6000 feet elevation.
It is called “Tchenden” by the Lepchas,
Bhoteeas, and Tibetans, and its fragrant red wood
is burnt in the temples.
Illustration—GROUP OF CHAITS AT PASSIDING.
The Lamas met us on the top of the hill, bringing
a noble present of fowls, vegetables and oranges,
the latter most acceptable after our long and hot
march. The site is admirably chosen, in the very
heart of Sikkim, commanding a fine view, and having
a considerable river on either side, with the power
of retreating behind to the convents of Sunnook and
Powhungri, which are higher up on the same spur, and
surrounded by forest enough to conceal an army.
Considering the turbulent and warlike character of
their neighbours, it is not wonderful that the monks
should have chosen commanding spots, and good shelter
for their indolent lives: for the same reason
these monasteries secured views of one another:
thus from Tassiding the great temple of Pemiongchi
was seen towering 3000 feet over head, whilst to the
north-west, up the course of the river, the hill-sides
seemed sprinkled with monasteries.
