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Essays of Travel eBook

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Robert Louis Stevenson

For all that, the forest has been of use to Jacques, not only warming him with fallen wood, but giving him shelter in days of sore trouble, when my lord of the chateau, with all his troopers and trumpets, had been beaten from field after field into some ultimate fastness, or lay over-seas in an English prison.  In these dark days, when the watch on the church steeple saw the smoke of burning villages on the sky-line, or a clump of spears and fluttering pensions drawing nigh across the plain, these good folk gat them up, with all their household gods, into the wood, whence, from some high spur, their timid scouts might overlook the coming and going of the marauders, and see the harvest ridden down, and church and cottage go up to heaven all night in flame.  It was but an unhomely refuge that the woods afforded, where they must abide all change of weather and keep house with wolves and vipers.  Often there was none left alive, when they returned, to show the old divisions of field from field.  And yet, as times went, when the wolves entered at night into depopulated Paris, and perhaps De Retz was passing by with a company of demons like himself, even in these caves and thickets there were glad hearts and grateful prayers.

Once or twice, as I say, in the course of the ages, the forest may have served the peasant well, but at heart it is a royal forest, and noble by old associations.  These woods have rung to the horns of all the kings of France, from Philip Augustus downwards.  They have seen Saint Louis exercise the dogs he brought with him from Egypt; Francis I. go a-hunting with ten thousand horses in his train; and Peter of Russia following his first stag.  And so they are still haunted for the imagination by royal hunts and progresses, and peopled with the faces of memorable men of yore.  And this distinction is not only in virtue of the pastime of dead monarchs.

Great events, great revolutions, great cycles in the affairs of men, have here left their note, here taken shape in some significant and dramatic situation.  It was hence that Gruise and his leaguers led Charles the Ninth a prisoner to Paris.  Here, booted and spurred, and with all his dogs about him, Napoleon met the Pope beside a woodland cross.  Here, on his way to Elba not so long after, he kissed the eagle of the Old Guard, and spoke words of passionate farewell to his soldiers.  And here, after Waterloo, rather than yield its ensign to the new power, one of his faithful regiments burned that memorial of so much toil and glory on the Grand Master’s table, and drank its dust in brandy, as a devout priest consumes the remnants of the Host.

IN THE SEASON

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Essays of Travel from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.

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