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Essays of Travel eBook

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Robert Louis Stevenson

The difference between England and America to a working man was thus most humanly put to me by a fellow-passenger:  ‘In America,’ said he, ‘you get pies and puddings.’  I do not hear enough, in economy books, of pies and pudding.  A man lives in and for the delicacies, adornments, and accidental attributes of life, such as pudding to eat and pleasant books and theatres to occupy his leisure.  The bare terms of existence would be rejected with contempt by all.  If a man feeds on bread and butter, soup and porridge, his appetite grows wolfish after dainties.  And the workman dwells in a borderland, and is always within sight of those cheerless regions where life is more difficult to sustain than worth sustaining.  Every detail of our existence, where it is worth while to cross the ocean after pie and pudding, is made alive and enthralling by the presence of genuine desire; but it is all one to me whether Croesus has a hundred or a thousand thousands in the bank.  There is more adventure in the life of the working man who descends as a common solder into the battle of life, than in that of the millionaire who sits apart in an office, like Von Moltke, and only directs the manoeuvres by telegraph.  Give me to hear about the career of him who is in the thick of business; to whom one change of market means empty belly, and another a copious and savoury meal.  This is not the philosophical, but the human side of economics; it interests like a story; and the life all who are thus situated partakes in a small way the charm of Robinson Crusoe; for every step is critical and human life is presented to you naked and verging to its lowest terms.

NEW YORK

As we drew near to New York I was at first amused, and then somewhat staggered, by the cautious and the grisly tales that went the round.  You would have thought we were to land upon a cannibal island.  You must speak to no one in the streets, as they would not leave you till you were rooked and beaten.  You must enter a hotel with military precautions; for the least you had to apprehend was to awake next morning without money or baggage, or necessary raiment, a lone forked radish in a bed; and if the worst befell, you would instantly and mysteriously disappear from the ranks of mankind.

I have usually found such stories correspond to the least modicum of fact.  Thus I was warned, I remember, against the roadside inns of the Cevennes, and that by a learned professor; and when I reached Pradelles the warning was explained—­it was but the far-away rumour and reduplication of a single terrifying story already half a century old, and half forgotten in the theatre of the events.  So I was tempted to make light of these reports against America.  But we had on board with us a man whose evidence it would not do to put aside.  He had come near these perils in the body; he had visited a robber inn.  The public has an old and well-grounded favour for this class of incident, and shall be gratified to the best of my power.

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Essays of Travel from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.

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