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Essays of Travel eBook

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Robert Louis Stevenson

to faint and wither away like a cut flower.  And on those days the thought of the wind and the thought of human life came very near together in my mind.  Our noisy years did indeed seem moments in the being of the eternal silence; and the wind, in the face of that great field of stationary blue, was as the wind of a butterfly’s wing.  The placidity of the sea was a thing likewise to be remembered.  Shelley speaks of the sea as ’hungering for calm,’ and in this place one learned to understand the phrase.  Looking down into these green waters from the broken edge of the rock, or swimming leisurely in the sunshine, it seemed to me that they were enjoying their own tranquillity; and when now and again it was disturbed by a wind ripple on the surface, or the quick black passage of a fish far below, they settled back again (one could fancy) with relief.

On shore too, in the little nook of shelter, everything was so subdued and still that the least particular struck in me a pleasurable surprise.  The desultory crackling of the whin-pods in the afternoon sun usurped the ear.  The hot, sweet breath of the bank, that had been saturated all day long with sunshine, and now exhaled it into my face, was like the breath of a fellow-creature.  I remember that I was haunted by two lines of French verse; in some dumb way they seemed to fit my surroundings and give expression to the contentment that was in me, and I kept repeating to myself —

’Mon coeur est un luth suspendu,
Sitot qu’on le touche, il resonne.’

I can give no reason why these lines came to me at this time; and for that very cause I repeat them here.  For all I know, they may serve to complete the impression in the mind of the reader, as they were certainly a part of it for me.

And this happened to me in the place of all others where I liked least to stay.  When I think of it I grow ashamed of my own ingratitude.  ‘Out of the strong came forth sweetness.’  There, in the bleak and gusty North, I received, perhaps, my strongest impression of peace.  I saw the sea to be great and calm; and the earth, in that little corner, was all alive and friendly to me.  So, wherever a man is, he will find something to please and pacify him:  in the town he will meet pleasant faces of men and women, and see beautiful flowers at a window, or hear a cage-bird singing at the corner of the gloomiest street; and for the country, there is no country without some amenity—­let him only look for it in the right spirit, and he will surely find.

Footnotes: 

{1} The Second Part here referred to is entitled ’across the plains,’ and is printed in the volume so entitled, together with other Memories and Essays.

{2} I had nearly finished the transcription of the following pages when I saw on a friend’s table the number containing the piece from which this sentence is extracted, and, struck with a similarity of title, took it home with me and read it with indescribable satisfaction.  I do not know whether I more envy M. Theuriet the pleasure of having written this delightful article, or the reader the pleasure, which I hope he has still before him, of reading it once and again, and lingering over the passages that please him most.

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Essays of Travel from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.

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