[Arrival at the Gulf of Mexico—­Camp Mosquito.]

CHAPTER X.

FROM BILOXI TO CAPE SAN BLAS

Points on the gulf coast.—­ Mobile bay.—­ The hermit of Dauphine
island.—­ Bon Secours bay.—­ A cracker’s daughter.—­ The portage to
the Perdido.—­ The portage from the Perdido to big lagoon.—­ Pensacola
bay.—­ Santa Rosa island.—­ A new London fisherman.—­ Catching the
pompano.—­ A negro preacher and white sinners.—­ A day and A night
with A murderer.—­ St. Andrew’s sound.—­ Arrival at cape San Blas.

On the morning of February 8 we left Biloxi, and launching our boats, proceeded on our voyage to the eastward, skirting shores which were at times marshy, and again firm and sandy.  At Oak Point, and Belle Fontaine Point, green magnolia trees, magnificent oaks, and large pines grew nearly to the water’s edge.  Beyond Belle Fontaine the waters of Graveline Bayou flow through a marshy flat to the sea, and offer an attractive territory to sportsmen in search of wild-fowl.  Beyond the bayou, between West and East Pascagoula, we found a delta of marshy islands, and an area of mud flats, upon which had been erected enclosures of brush, within the cover of which the sportsman could secrete himself and boat while he watched for the wild ducks constantly attracted to his neighborhood by the submarine grasses upon which they fed.

At sunset we ran into the mouth of a creek near the village of East Pascagoula, and there slept in our boats, which were securely tied to stakes driven into the salt marsh.  At eight o’clock the next morning, the tide being low, we waded out of the stream, towing our boats with lines into deeper water, and rowed past East Pascagoula, which, like the other watering-places of the Gulf, seemed deserted in the winter.  The coast was now a wilderness, with few habitations in the dense forests, which formed a massive dark green background to the wide and inhospitable marshes.  As we proceeded upon our voyage wildfowl and fish became more and more abundant, but few fishermen’s boats or coasting vessels were seen upon the smooth waters of the Gulf.  About dusk we ascended a creek, marked upon our chart as Bayou Caden, and passing through marshes, over which swarmed myriads of mosquitoes, we landed upon the pebbly beach of a little hammock, and there pitched our tent.

This portable shelter, which we had made at Biloxi, proved indeed a luxury.  It was only six feet square at its base, weighing but a few pounds, and when compactly folded occupying little space; but after the first night’s peaceful sleep under its sheltering care it occupied a large place in our hearts; for, having driven out the mosquitoes and closely fastened the entrance, we bade defiance to our tormentors, and realized by comparison, as we never did before, the misery of voyaging without a tent.