The Jordan Valley is covered with a growth of thorn said to be like that used in the crowning of Christ at the time of his mock-trial.  We eat of a delicious yellow berry now ripening on these thorns.  We pass two or three small villages, the names of which I could not learn.  We cross a number of small streams this afternoon, the largest of which is the Tayibeh.  All of these streams are thickly lined with reeds and pink oleander; so thick is this growth in some places that the streams are completely hidden.  Our Arab guide springs down into each of these water-brooks and hands drink to us, but he drinks, I think, after the manner of the drinking of “Gideon’s three hundred,” in the time of their being tested; that is, by a quick movement of the hand throwing water into his mouth.

Pushing rapidly across the open valley we startle gazelles from their hiding-places among the reeds.  Then, near the river, we pass several encampments of Bedouins whose tents are black as those of Kedar.  At last, after being in the saddle all of ten hours, just at sun-set, we reach the Jordan at the bridge of Jisr el Mejamia, six miles south of the Sea of Galilee.  Just across on the other side of the river we shall tarry through the night.

The way has been long and trying.  I am very weary.  But, now, just before me the Jordan—­sacred stream!  And then, on the other side, rest!  Happy, soul-cheering thought!

“At the Bridge”

CHAPTER VIII.

The bridge of Jisr el Mejamia was at the time of my visit the only available one for travel between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea.  It is a stone bridge and was built by the Romans nearly, or quite, two thousand years ago.  It could scarcely be crossed by carriages at present as the ascent to the highest point is by a kind of step arrangement.  It even seemed a wise precaution for us not to attempt to ride over on horse-back—­the stones were very smooth and slippery.  The present name of the structure means “bridge of the messengers,” and it was so named because here messengers from various points in the land used to meet to exchange messages.

I am glad to reach this place, for again I am very tired.  The distance traveled to-day is said to be fifty miles.  But when we arrive here the road and bridge are crowded with sheep and goats being brought in from the valley for safety in the night.  My first sight of the Jordan, which at this place is clear and sparkling, does not particularly impress me.  I long for rest, and so we do not tarry, but pass directly into the village lying just at the west end of the bridge.

Oh, the wretchedness of this place!  I wonder what kind of entertainment I can find here.  There is little choice as to a place of lodging.  The best and only accommodation that the miserable village affords is what was formerly used by robbers as a prison-house for their victims, but which is now used as a kind of store-room.  There is but one room, and its earthen floor is littered over with filth of almost every description, while dust and cob-webs everywhere abound.  This is the reception-room for our party of four.