Above the falls the river was very rough, and in the next half or three-quarters of a mile we made three more portages, and landed a little before noon at a high, rocky point on the south shore, to find ourselves at the edge of the hill country again.  Here the river was crowded between high, rocky hills where it flowed too swift and deep for either poles or paddles.  We could keep to it no farther, and so made camp, for now some scouting for a portage route would be necessary.

While at dinner that day a thundershower passed.  The thunderstorms of Labrador seem very mild and gentle as compared with those we are accustomed to.  Later it settled to steady rain.  Job went scouting, and the others lay in the tent most of the afternoon, Joe and Gilbert not feeling very well.  Trouble—­change of diet with a little too much of it.  Job on his return in the evening reported the river bending away to the southwest a few miles farther on, and impassable as far as he could see.  There would be a long portage west and south, but the country was not very rough, and a number of small lakes would give some paddling.

The following day all the men, except Job, were ill, and camp was not moved till Thursday morning.  When evening came, the outfit had been taken forward three and a half miles.  The three small lakes we had passed had given about one mile of paddling, and at night our camp was made at the edge of the fourth, a tiny still water pond.

The flies were that day worse than I had ever seen them.  My veil proving an insufficient protection, I made myself a mask from one of the little waterproof bags, cutting a large hole in front through which I could see and breathe, and sewing over it several thicknesses of black veiling.  There were as well two holes cut at the back of the ears for ventilation-these also being covered with the veiling.  Pulling it over my head I tied it tight round my neck.  It was most fearful and hideous to look upon, but it kept out the flies.  The men insisted that I should have to take it off when we came to the Nascaupees else they would certainly shoot me.  The flies were in clouds that day, and even their tapping on the outside of my mask made me shudder.  I ached as I watched the men carrying their heavy loads, for it was very, very hot, and they wore no protection whatever.  How they endured so uncomplainingly I could not understand, and they rarely wore their veils.  It was an unspeakable relief when the clear, cool night closed in, and for a time put an end to the torture.

CHAPTER VIII

SCARING THE GUIDES

I awoke on Friday at 2.30 A.M.  The morning was clear as diamonds, and from the open front of my tent I could see the eastern sky.  It glowed a deep red gold, and I lay watching it.  An hour later the sun appeared over the hills touching the peak of my tent with its light, and I got up to look out.  The mists had gathered on our little lake, and away in the distance hung white over the river.